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NATUURHISTORISCH MUSEUM Postbus 9517 2300 RA L«1den NadsrLand

NATIONAAL

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A-if’ ' Ti-

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V3*’'.r

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Vorcdain Tower at Sanltin.

THE

HUNDRED

WONDERS OF THE WORLD,

and 'of the three

KINGDOMS' OF NATURE,

DESCRIBED ACCORDING TO

THE BEST AND LATEST AUTHORITIES,

AND ILLUSTRATED WITH

ONE HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS.

BY THE REV. C. C. CLARKE,

Author of the Wonders of the Ilenvctis,

“ Tlic Ancients boasted of their Seven Wonders of the Wom.D ^Ht this Work will prove tluit tlie Moderns may boast of their Hundred ^''Onders.” 1 Preface.

FIFTEENTH EDITION.

ENLARGED AND IMPROVED.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR SIB RICHARD PHILLIPS AND CO, BRIDB COURT, BRIDGE STREET.

1822.

CPrice 10s. 6d. bound in Red, and Lettered.)

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1

PREFACE.

r|^'HE Ancients boasted of their Sev3sn Wonders of the World, but this work will prove that tlit. Moderns may boast of their Hundred Wonders.

To embody these wonders, whether of nature, or of nrt, and to bring them into a comprehensive form, from tlie different stores in which they may be said to have been liitherto locked up, has been the aim of the editor of these pages. They are here drawn into light, and exhibited at a single view, presenting 'vhatever is most striking in the creation, and what- ever the genius and industry of man have been able to effect, in order to excite admiration at the sublimity of his conceptions, the depth of his scientific reseaichcs, Rnd the grandeur of those structures, many of which have subsisted, almost unimpaired, for a long succes- sion of ages, in testimony of his consummate skill, which could thus achieve monuments, at once so splendid, and of so imperishable a nature !

ffhosc marvellous relations w'hich the mischievous fancy of travellers has too often imposed on the credulitj' of the weak, as well as the fables founded in bigotry and priestcraft, which were received as truths

IV

PREFACE.

in the dark ages, have been sedulously shunned : where tlie subjects treated have incidentally led to them, they have, on the other hand, been as carefully exposed. But whatever has been confirmed by the concurrent testimony of enllglitcned writers, lias been faithfully digested fix .heir works. Whether on the subjects in which nature, in the dUferent departments of her empire, and in the bestowal of her sublime gifts and attributes, displays lieradf in her most magnificent attire ; or on tiiose in which art lias overstepped the ordinary bounds assigned to the faculties of man ; the liest authorities have been throughout consulted. The editor, therefore, flatters himself that, In compiling and assembling so many objects of wonder and delight, he has conferred a real benefit on the rising generation, and that ids labours will not he disdained by tliose even, wliosc researclies into the suheime wonhers of nature AND OF ART have engrossed the chief of their atten- tion.

CONTENTS

Pack

I. Mountains of the Andes, in South America,

It. Chimborazo,

III. Cotopaxi,

IV. PiCHINCHA, •• . .y

V. Mount Etna, in the Island ot oiciiy,

VI. Mount Vesuvius, near Naples,

VII. Mount Hecla, in Iceland,

VIII. The Geysers,

The Sulphur Mountain, m Iceland, . .

IX. Mont Blanc, in Switzerland,

The Glaciers, or Ice Masses, . . • •

View from the Buet Mountain, Switzerland, . . Spanish Mountain of Montserrat, . .

X. The Peak of Teneriffe, _ • • * ‘ ^

XI. The Souffriere Mountain, in the Island

St, Vincent,

XII. The Peak of Derbyshire, . • ' •

Elden Hole, SQ-Peak ^avprn, 6l-Mam P

or the Shivering Mountain, >

and Flowing Well, 04— St. Anne s Well, ib. —The Crystallized Cavern,

Level 66— The High Tor, 67— Chee lor, 68 -Masson Hill, 69-The Cumbeiland^ 70-Revnard’s Hole, 71-^hor s House, 72

The Lover’s Leap, . - . •

The Moors, with other English cuuosities,

XIII. British Mountains, ..

Ben Nevis, 75-Snowdon, 76-Cader /7

, —Penman Mawr, 78-Skiddaw, 79-Wharn side, . .

XIV. Stromboli,

Lipari,

Vulcano, . . • ■ , V j- .

XV. The Himal.aya Mountains, in the East Indies,

Asiatic Mountains,

Volcanic Mountains of Kamtschatka, ••

Volcanic Mountain of Albay,

a 3

4

5

6

7

\4r

22

26

31

33

36

37

38 41

52

57

73

74

75

79

ib

82

83

85

87

ib

89

COXTENTS.

Ish'.nris which have risen from llie Sea,

iVcw Island, near Slanchio, in the Grecian Archipelago,

Another new Island, near Tercera, one of the Group of the Azores,

XVI. S.vBHis.t Island, near St. Michael’s, one ot

the Azores,

Subterraneous Wonders,

XVII. The Great Kentucky Cavern,

XVIII. Grotto OF Antipaeos,

f averns in Gertnany and Hungary, contain- Fo.ssil Bones,

'I'lie Grotta del Cano,

XIX. Grand Staffa C.^vern, or Fingal’s Cave < Ither Grottoes and Caverns,

XX. The Yanak, or Perpetual Fire,

XXI. Herculaneum,

XXII. I'oMi’En, .. ■ .. A

I'he Museum at Porticl,

Farthquakes,

Earthquakes of remote Time.s, lo2— Earth- quake in Calabria, 153,— XXIII. The Gre.at F.AKT1I quake of 1/55, 155 — Earthquakes in Sicilv mid the Two Calabria, s, 16'8 — Earthqu.akes in

Pack

91

9^

99

ib.

ItU

ib.

109

112

115

121

12.5

129

131

134

143

14U

^ Peru, &c. 178 — Earthquake in Venezuela, Connexion of Earthqutikes with Volcanoes, ibi-.aitic and llocky Wonders,

XXIV. The Giant’s C.auseway,

B.asaltic Columns,

Xatnral Bridges,

XX'^E Naj;* .-ial Bridges or Icononzo, .. XlXyi. Rocr-' Bridge, in Vircini.a, ..

I’recipices and Fromoutories, ..

XXVII. Bkssely Gaut,

The Cape of llie Winds,

The Xorth Cape,

Precipices of San Antonia, in South Americ.n, Precipice of the I'abie Mountain, in South Carolina, . .

Geological Changes of the Earth,

XXVIII. Extraneous Fossils, 217— Fossil Cro- codiles, 220 — Large Fossil Animal of Maea-

ISl

182

167

ib.

193

igii

10.

199

206

ib

201

201

20G

20 20 i

CONTENTS,

trid’t, 22] — Fossil Remains of Riuiiinantia, 222 — Fossil Remains of Elephants 223 — Fos- sil Remains of ilie Mastodon, 226 — Fossil Remains of the Rhinoceros, 22" — Fossil Re- mains of the Siberian Mammoth, 228 — Fossil Shells,

XXIX. SuBTETiRA NEoCs Forests,

Moors Messes, and Bogs,

CoKAi. Reefs and Islands, .. ' ..

XXXI. ^yu)F, AND Iniioefitable Dbsehts

Asi.atic Deserts, 243 — Arabian Deserts, 2-14 — Atriean Deserts, 245 — rilgrimage across thi; Deserts, 248 — XXXII. Sands of the De-

SEllT,

Mnte.s, Metals, ;md Gems,

XXXI II, Diamond jMines,

-’^XXIV, GoL!5 AND Silver Mines,

XXXV. Q.uicksilver Mines,

Iron Mines,

Mine.s of Copper, Tin, Lead,'^&c.

Goal Mines,

Feliing CoHiciy, .. .

Miscellaneous Subjects connected with X neralog_v,

■‘^alt Mines, ‘

Sad Mnies of Cracow,

Salt Mines and Salt Springs of Cheshire,

I henomena of the Ocean,

Saltness of the Sea,

V.., p'digohition of Sea-water

^XXVll. InEBEUGS,

Burainous Points in the Sea,

_ I ioes and Currents,

Ctncipal Rivers, .. •

Aniencan Rivers,

X\in. R.IVER OF THE Amazons, ib, — XXaIX.

Apurimac, 334 — XL.Tiie Okoonoko, 335—Rio de la Plata, 337— The Mississippi,

A ■ • Ohio, 340 — The St. Laurence,

Asiatic Rivers,

vll I'agc.

aLI, Tit

230

231

232 23() 243

252

2.58

25<)

263

271

273

■47.0

287

294

206

302

303 30,5 310 312 3 15

317

32!

322

323 32f) 332

341

343

K 'erANGEs, 343— XLII. TiiE Indus, 345—

Vlll

COXTENTS.

• The Kian-Ku,

The Hoang-H^o, 347 African Rivers, •• •• ••

XLIII.'The Nile,, 348— The Senegal, 351 — iue Gambia,

European Rivers, ••

The Volga, 352 — The Don, 353 — Tne iNieper, ib.— The Neva, 354— The Dwina, ib.— The Danube, 355— The Rhine, ib. — The Rhone, 35^ — The Vistula, ib. — The Kibe, 358— -The Loire, ib. — The Garonne, ib. — The Seine, Rivers of Spain,

^Italian rivers,

British Rivers, .. .. •• -r,

The Thames, 361— The Severn, 362- The Trent, 363 — The Humber, ib.— The Forth, 30'5— The Tay, ib. — The Shannon,

Lakes, .. •• • ”

American Lakes,

XLIV Lake Superior, . . • . • •

XLV. L.ake Huron, &c.

Asiatic Lakes,

XLVI. Lake Asph.^ltites,

XLVH The Caspian Sea,

African Lakes,

European Lakes British Lakes,

Cataracts and Cascades,

XLVIII.^Falls OE Niagara, ..

XLIX. Falls of the Montmorenci, . .

The Tuccoa Fall,

Falls of the Misouri,

Water-fall of South Africa

L. C.ATARACTS OF THE Nile,

Cataracts of tlie Mender,

Other Cataracts, Cascades, and Water-falls,

Springs and Wells, ..

LI. Saint Winifred's Well,

LIL Dropping Well .at Knaresbokough, .. Wigan Well,

Broseley Spring, .■

Hot Springs of St. Michael, .. •.

Hot Springs of the Troas,

AGE.

347

348

352

ib.

359 ib.

360

361

365

367

ib.

ib.

363

370

ib.

372

ib.

ib.

375

:57‘)

ib.

382

3S4

ib.

3S6

387 ib.

388

392

ib.

394

395

396 ib.

397

CONTENTS,

Other boiling Spiings,

neciprocating Fountains, or Sjtrings, .

Bituminous and other Lakes,

Llir.

Pitch Lake of Tiiimidad,

LIV. IVluj) Lake of Java,

Atmospherical Phonomena, . . .

LV. Meteous, .. .. .

LVl. A EROLiTEs, or vidcoric slimes, Aurora Borealis, and Aurora Australis, Lumen Boreale, or Streaming Lights, Luminous Arches,

Ignes Falui, or Mock Fires,

I,VII. Spectke of the Broken,

Aerial Images on Souter Fell, a Momitaiu

of Cumberland,

LVIII. The Miage,

LIX. Fata IMokgaka,

Atnjospherical refraction,

Pai'lieiia, or Mock Suns,

Lunar Rainbow,

Concentric Rainbows, ilmnder and Lightning,

LX. Remakkarle Thundek Storms, LXI. Hailstorms,

LXIl. Hurricanes,

LXIII. Monsoons,

''Vhiklwinds akh'Wateuspouts

SouiHs and Edwes, ..

Wonders of Nature,

' • Tiif. Great Seurent, ‘called th Boa Constrictor, ..

Serpent,

1 he Rattlesnake,

Hie Cobra de Capello,

Hie Cerastes, or Horned Snake, rcat \ jper of Martinique, i^ascmating power of Snakes,

B The Elephant,

-■XvlII. Ihe Orang Outang,

Hie Beaver,

1 he Chameleon,

ix

1’age.

308

400

401 ib.

402

403 ib.

420

426"

427

430

43 t

434

435

437

438

440

441 443 ,ib. 445

44 9 452 454 450 458 403 405

ib.

40y

478

480

481

483 tib.

484 460 493 495

CONTENTS.

Pa fit:

The Bottle-nested Sparrow, . . . . 4y7

The Humming Bird, .. • - 4y8

Edible Birds' Nests, .. .. .. 4()t)

The Migration of Birds, .. .. 5(K1

LXIX. The Termites, or White Ants, 502

The Bee, .. .. ■< 508

Transformation of Insects, .. .. 514

Zoophites, or Plant- Animals, .. .. 517

LXX. The Banian Tree, .. .. 5K)

The Wedded Banian Tree, .. 521

The Cocoa-nut Tree, .. .. >h-

LXXI. The Upas, or Poison Tree, . . 522

Wonders of Art,

LXXII. Pyramids of Egypt, . . 533

The Sphynx, . . • - - • 512

Eigyptian Temples and Monuments, .. ib.

LXXIII. Cryptje, or Catacomes of

Alexandria, .. •• •• 546

LXXIV. Ruins of Palmyra, . . . . 548

Ruins of Balbec, . . . . ' . . 550

LXXV. Ruins of Babylon, .. .. 553

Babylonian Bricks, . . . . . . 559

LXXVI. Ruins OF Persepolis, .. .. 56l

Royal Palace of Ispahan, . . . . 56-t

Temple of Mecca, ’ " . . . - ib.

Holy Land, . . t • • • • • 56o

Bethlehem, . . • • • - 'h-

Nazareth, . . . . - ■ 567

The Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, . . 568

The Mount of Olives, . . . . • - 5/0

Otlier revered Sites, .. 571

Napolese, or Sichem, . . . . 572

Wonders of Art, continued, ib.

Mosque of Omar, . . . ib.

Mosque of St. Sophia, at Constantinople, . . 573

Ruins of Carthage, .. •• •• 574

The Plain of Troy, .. •• •• 5y6

LXXVIl. Athens, .. -• • 579

LXXVIII. Temples OF Elephants, .. 581

LXXIX. Temples OF Salsette, .. 584

COSTbHTS.

Mtuisoleum of tlyder AI7, .. ..

J’I'lie 'I'njo Mahnl, a Masoleum, . .

LXXX.. Great Wall of Chika,

LXXXI. Porcelain Tower, at Nankir ,

The Hanging Tower of Pisa, inTuscany, . . TXXXII. The Coliseum, AT Rome,

Roman Amphitheatre at Nismes, ..

LXXX III. Trajan’s Pillar, .. ..

Maison Carree, at Nismes,

LXXXIV. The Pont Du Gard,

LXXXV, St. Peter’s OF Rome,

LXXXVl. Eddystone lighi'-House, ..

LXXXVII. Bell Rock light-House,

LXXXVIII. Stonehenge,

Rocking Stones

I^XXXIX. St. Paul’s Cathedral,

XC. West.minster Abbey,

XCI. The Tower OF London,

XCII. The Bank of England,

XCIII. General Post-Office,

XCIV. The Monument, .. ..

XCV. The Louvre,

XCVI. The British Museum,

XCVII, The Linwood Gallery, Leicester Square ^^^i-ock’s Museum, Piccadilly,

XCIX. Dr. Herschel’s Grand Telescofe,

^ he English Telegraph ^^^'6 Air Balloon,

• i HE Steam Engine,

Steam Boats,

T- he Lite Boat,

First Rate Man of War, .. ..

Printing Engine,

Grand G.ilvanic Battery,

Pile Blow Pipe,

T1 he Safety Lamp, . . ...

d he Gas L'ght Apparatus, ..

Loudon Water Works,

The Diving Bell,

xi

Page

58

ib.

587

589-

ib.

590

591

592

593

594

595 598 600 603 605

607

611

614

618

619 62b 621 623 628 629

631

632

634

635

636 638 6-10 6-il 642 64,5 6-1 ,■> 6)7 6'4() 650

LIST OF THE PLATES.

I’ovceluiii Tower at Nankin, to fare tin- Tit'e.

R

Crater nt)

14

ie

SO

34

:;3

Pack.

Tlie Andos near Quito,

I’e.ik ipf Toneritl'c. . .

CliiBihornzi), ....

Cotopaxi,

Distant view ol' Ktna, .

Ktna, liy iNioonli-rlit,

(ircat Crater of Etna .Stroinlnili,

Interior of the

Vesnvios, . . . . ^

(h ater of Etna, . . . >

Eiioinions cloud of .smoko ^ is.snin;; from Ah’siivins, J Tesiiviii.s ami Naples, . j

Vi siivin.s in eruption, ‘

Mount Htcin,

'rhe Gey.sers and Hctda nlont Ifkinc, . . .

v-ilaciers of Miagc, . iVlonscriat, . . .

Snowdon,

St. iMichacl's A'olcano,

Sabrina Island,

Grotto of Antiparo.s,

Devirs Peak, Ucrliysln I’ingal’s Cave, . .

Giant's Cun.seway Bending pillars at Stafi'a,

Banian Tree, p. 519, .

Temple of I.sis, . . . .1,.,.

High .Street of Pompeii,. . j Natural liridgesofleononzo I Kock Bridge, Virginia, . .f North Cape at Midnight, V lee Ishind and Continent ofg , Ice, in the North Polarf Circle, ...... J

Gobi Washing, . . . Diamond M'asiiing, . .

.Silver Mine, . . .

Natural Uoad nndi-r the MonniJiin of Filifeid

Norway, 3

Falls of Niagara, large plate, 382 Fails of Niagara, . .

■}

1 11)0

i

1 124

110

122

^ 260

TO

Falls of Monlnioretiei,

.St. Winifreil’s Well, - "J Dropping Well at Knare.s- > horongh, .»

392

!>

AVaterspoiits, with thcA passage of a elnstcr of^ .‘Veroliles lliroiigh thef

air . .3

Termites’ Ant Hills, , . f Termites’ Pyramids, . .J Py ramids of Djiza, . . )

Ihitranee to the principals py ramid of Djiza, . . j

Kemarkahie form of one ) of the pyramids of Sac- (

oara,

.Stonehenge, . . ■

View of Palmyr.1, . .

St. IVter's of Koine, .

Part of the Unins of;

B.ihylon, .... Betidehem, .... Nazareth, .... Grotto of Nazareth, .

Holy Sepnlrlire <al Jern

Salem,

Parliieiiom, .... Temple of .Inpiter, iM ansolenm of HyderAlly Great Wall of China, Coiiseiim at I’ome,

I’aiik of England,

Pont du Gaid ncarNis-s rues, ill Langnedoe, . f Aqncihiet of the Peal f Forest Canal. . . . ’

Eddy.stone Lighllionse, Y Bell Rock Lighthouse, J St, Paul’s Cathedral, , AVestminster Ahhey, . J Dnetor Hcr.schel’s (>rand i 'I'ele.scope, . . - • (

The English Telegraph, { 'i'lie Balloon, . . . J

Steam Engine, . •

Blow Pipe J

Steam Boat Navigating s the Clyde, . . . /

New A’ork and Albany f Steam Boat. . . j

u;e.

•158

502

5.3-J

.512

518

5.54

56fi

56C

580

580

590

594

598

008

632

■ 65c.

038

THE

WONDERS OE THE WORLDS

and of the

THREE KINGDOMS OF NATURE.

THE MOUNTAINS OF THE ANDES,

IN SOUTH AMEiUCA.

« Mounlahis and all hUls-praisc the name of for hh name alone is excellent ; his glory is above me earth and heaven.”

Among tlie wonders, or nncommon world, may be classed stupendous Mountains ; an the Andes, in South America, are the lotticsri ® tensive, and, therefore, the most wonderful. Desc p objects which are striking, because tliey are vas , o ‘ exciting appropriate ideas 5 and

cal may be the accounts of tins class ot Nature s P °digies no just notions of their vastne.ss can be conveyed by } written or graphical representation. The magnitude object must be seen to be duly conceived, "

wonders will be best felt by those who have visite • >

Scoiland, Switzurlandj or the mountainoiis regions o rica or Aiia. „ . , .1^

The stupendous mourAtalns called by the ^

Cor-diUeras, (from cord, or chain, pronounced by Urem C<>r~dil~le^raSy) or Chains of the Andes, y ,v

north and south, near the western coast, from the Islhmu of Darien, through the whole of the continent o America, to the Suaits of Magellan. In the north ere arc three chains or separate ridges, but in advancing rom Popayan towards the soutii, the three chains unite m o B

2 MOUNTAINS,

a sii^le group, Avliich is continued far beyond die equator In the kingdom of Quito,* the more elevated summits

crest to die Lot dillcr.i. I he extent of the Andes Momi- taais la not less tliaji tour Uiousaiid tlirec hundred miles.

Rocks rich in Rcms, mid moiintiiins liig with mines,

lliat on die liijrli pijiiator ridyv ri-c

Afiience many n bursting stremn auriferous plays.

Tiio.mson.

In Uus_ (Muntry the operations of nahire appear to have been carried on un a larger scale, and wilb a bolder hand than elsewhere; and m consequence the whole is di.stin- guished by a peculiar naagniticence. Even the tilaiu of Quito, which may be considered as the base of the Andes, is more elevated above the sea than the summits of ni.any European mountains. In dillerent places the Andes ri.se more tlian one-Uiird above the famous Peak of Tenerifte tlie highest land hi the ancient hemisphere Their cloud’ enveloped summits, though expo.sed to the rays of the sun m the tornd zone, are covered with eternal snows, and below them the storm is seen to burst, and the exploring traveller hears tlie thunder roll, and sees the lighlnincs dart beneath hts feet. .

Throughout the whole of tlie range of these extensiv'e mountains, as far as they have been explored, there Ls a cejtain boundary, above which tlie snow .never melts which boundary, in tlie torrid zone, has been ascertained to be 14,600 feet, or nearly tlwee miles, above tlie level of the South Sea.

The ascent to tlie plain of Quito, on which stand Chim- borazo, Cotopaxi, Picliinclia, &c. is thus described by Don Juan de Ulloa : ^

“ The ruggedness of the road from Taraguao-a leadino- up the mountain, is not easily described. The declivity is so great, in some parts, that the mules can scarcely keeii their footing; and, in otliers, the acclivity is equally- difficult. The trouble of sending people before to mend the road, the pain arising from the many falls and bniises,

• Pronounced Qu^-to, the t in all European languages beiiw suuuded as au r, ”

I

The Andes near Quito.

: •«.

MOUNT.UUS.

and the being constantly wet to the skin, might be sup- jwrtedj but these inconveniences are augmented by tlia sight of such frightful precipices, and deep abysses, as excite constant terror. The road, in some places, is so steep, and yet so narrow, that the mules are obliged to slide down, without making any use whatever ot theh feet. On one side of the rider, in this situation, rises an eminence of many hundred yards ; and, on tire other, is an abyss of equal depth ; so that, if he should give the least check to his mule, and destroy tlie equilibrium, both must inevitably perish.

“ Having travelled nine days m this manner, slowly winding along the sides of tlie mountains, we began to find the whole country covered with a hoar-frost ; and a hut, in which we reposed, had ice in it. At length, after a perilous journey of fifteen days, we arrived upon a plain, at the extremity of which stands the city of Quito, the capital of one of the most charming regions in the world. Here, in the centre of the torrid zone, the heat is not only very tolerable, but, in some places, the cold is even painful. Here the inhabitants enjoy the temperature and advan- tages of perpetual spring ; the fields being constantly co- vered with verdure, and enamelled with flowers of the most lively colours. However, although this beautiful region is more elevated tlran any other country In the world, and it employs so many days of painful journey in the ascent, it is itself overlooked by tremendous moun- tains ; ^ their sides being covered with snow, while their suniuiits are flaming with vol^.auocs. These mountahis- seem piled one up(m the othe. , and to rise with great boldness to an astonishing height. However, at a deter- mined point al)ovc the surface of the sea, the congelation is found at the same height in all the mountains. Those parts which are not subject to a continual frost, have here and there growing upon them a species of rush, resembling the broom, but much softer and more flexible. Howards tlie extremity of the part where the rush grows, and the cold begins to increase, is found a vegetable with a round bulbous head. Higher still, the earth is hare of vegetatio.i, and seems covered witii eternal snow. The most remark- able of tlie Andes are the mountains of Ciumborazo., Cotopaxi, and Pichincha.”

Ba

4

SIOUKTAIMS.

CHIMBORAZO,

THE MOST LOFTY OF THE ANDES.

This is the most majestic of the Andes, and has a clrculai summit, 22,000 feet, or above four miles high. On llic shores of the South Sea, after tlie long Kilns of winter, -when the mistiness of the air has suddenly climlni.shed, Cliimborazo appears like a cloud in the horizon. It de- taches itself fiom the neighbouring^ summits, and raises its lofty head over the whole chain ot llie Andes. Iiavel- lers who have approached the summits ot Mont Blanc and Mont Bose, are alone capable ot feeling tlie effect ot such vast, majestic, and solemn scenery.

The bulk of Chimborazo is so enormous, that the jKirt which the eye embraces at once, near the limit ot tlie snows, is 22,968 feet, nr four miles and a tiiird in bveadtli. B'he extreme rarity ot tlie strata ot air, acro.ss which the sum- mits of the Andes ai'e seen, contributes greatly to the splen- dour of the snow, and the magical effect of its reflection. Under the tropics, at a lieiglit of 1 0,400 feet, upwards of three miles, the azure vault of the heavens appears ol an indigo tint ; while, in so pine and transpaient an atnurs- jfliere, the outlines of the mountains detach themselves Irora tire sky, and produce an effect at once sublime, awful, and profoundly impressive.

With the exception of the newh'-discovered Asiatic mountains, Chimborazo is the highest known mountain in the world. Hnmboldt, Bonpland, and Montuiar, were persevering enough to approach within 1OOO leet ot tlie summit of this mighty king of mountains. Being aided in their ascent by a train of \olcanic rocks, destitute ot snow, tliey tlius attained the amazing height of nearly four nnkisi above the level of the sea; and the former o' these natis- ralists is persuaded that they might have readied the hlgliest summit, had it not been for the intervention of a great ^a'evice, or gap, which tliey were unable to cross. '1 licy were, therefore, obliged to descend, after experleucing great inconveniences, and many unpleasant sensatioits. For tliree or four days, even after their return into the plain, th^ were not free from sickness, and an uncomfoitable feeling, owing, as they suppose, to the vast proportion of

Chimborazo.

MOUNTAIKS. S

Oxygen in tlie atmosphere above. Long before tliey reached tlie above surprising height, they had been abandoned by their guides, the Indians, who had taken alarm, and were fearful of tlieir lives. So great was the fall of snow on tlreir return, that they could scarcely recognize each other, and thev all suffered dreadfolfo from the inteirseness of the cold.

A great number of Spaniards formerly perished in yossirig the vast and dangerous deserts which lie on the declivity ot Chimborazo ; being now, however, better acquainted with tlieiii, such misfortunes seldom occur, espe- cially as very few take tliis route, i,nles,s there be a pros- pect ot calm and serene weather.

COTOPAXI.

This mountain is tlie loftiest of those volcanoes of tlie Andes which, at recent epochs, have undergone eniptions. JNotwithstanding it lies near the Equator, its summits are wvered with perpetual snows. The absolute height ot otopaxi is 18,876 feet, or three miles and a half, con- sequently it is 2,622 feet, or half a mile, higher tlian Vesu- I ms would he, were that mountain placed on the top ol le I eak of Teneritfe ! Cotopaxi is the most mischievous o tlie volcanoes in tlie kingdom of Quito, and its explo- sions aie the most frequent and disastrous. The masses ot ^nse, and the pieces of rock, thrown out of this volcano, wpr/f several square leagues, and would form,

i7'tR heaped together, a prodigious mountain. In

^ flames ot Cotopaxi rose 3000 feet, or upwards

halt a mile, above tlie brink of tlie crater. In 1/44, . this volcano were heard at the distance of six undred miles. On the 4th of April, 1768, the quantity it ejected at the moudi of Cotopaxi was so great, that yas dark till tliree in the afternoon. The explosion ici took place in 1803, was preceded by the sudden tw snows tliat covei'ed tlie mountain. For

cp'iv' I ^sfore no smoke or vapour, Uiat could be per- tlip c issued from the crater ; but in a single night extpi- fires became so active, that at suivrise the

tenii-vp— cor.e, heated to a very considerable I true, appeared naked, and of the dark cdour

0 MOUNTAINS.

which is peculiar to vitrified scoriae. “ At the port of Guayaquil,” observes Humboldt, “ fifty-two leagues dis- tant in a straight line from the crater, we heal’d, day and night, the noise of this volcano, like continued discharges of a battery ; and we distinguished these tremendous sounds even on the Pacific Ocean.”

The form of Cotopaxi is the most beautiful and regular of the colossal summits of the high Andes. It is a perfect cone, which, covered with a perpetual layer of snow, shines with dazzling splendour at the setting of the sun, and detaches itself in the most pictoi’esque manner fi’om the azure vault aliovc. This covering of snow conceals from the eye of tlie observer even tlie smallest inequal- ities of the soil ; no point of rock, no stony mass, pene- trating this coat of ice, or breaking tlie regularity of the figure of tlie cone.

PIC H INCH A.

Though celebrated for its great height, Pichincha is 3,849 feet, or tlwee-fourths of a mile, lower than the perpen- dicular elevation of Cotopaxi. It was formerly a volcano ; but the mouth or crater on one of its sides is now covered with s.aiid or calcined matter, so that at present neither smoke nor ashes issue from it.

When it was ascended by Don George Juan and Don Antonio de UUoa, for the purpose of their, asti’onomical obsen’ations, tliey found the cold on the top of tliis moun- tain esitremely intense, the wind very violent, and the] fog, or, in otlior words, the cloud, so tliick, that objects at the distance of six or eight paces were scarcely discernible. t)n the air becoming clear, by tlie clouds descending nearer the earth, in such manner as to surround tUe mountain on all sides to a vast distance, these clouds afforded a lively representation of the sea, in which tlie top of the mountain seemed to stand, like an island in die centre.

With aspect niiM, and elevated eje,

JSeliold liiiii seated on a mount seiene,

Above the fogs of sense, and pa.ssion’s storm;

All the black cares and tnmnlts ot this life,

Like harmless tluindcrs, breaking at his feet,

Excite his pity, not impair his peace, You.xo

MOUNTAINS. 7

When the clouds dcscendedj tlic astronomers heard tlie dreadful noise of tempestSj, ■which discliarged themselves from them on the adjacent countrj’. I'hcy saw the lightning issue, from the eloud.s, and heard tiie tlinnder roll far beneath tliem. While the lower parts were thus involved in tempests of thunder and rain, frey enjoyed a delightful serenity , tl'.e wind abated, the sky cleared, and the enlivening rays of the sun moderated tlie severity of tlie cold. But when the clouds rose, their density rendered respiration difficult . snow and hail fell continually, and the winds retunied with such violence, that it was impossible to overcome the fear of being blown down the predpices, or of being buried by tlie accumulations of ice and snow, or by the enormous frag- ments of rocks which rolled around them. Every crevice m their hut was stopped, and, tliough die hut was small, Avas crowded with inliabitants, and several lamps were constantly burning, tlie cold was so great, tliat each indivi- dual was obliged to have a chafing-dish of coals, and seve- ral men were employed every morning in removing the snows which had fallen during tlie night. Their feet w'ere swollen, and tliey became so tender and sensible, tliat walking was attended witli extreme pain ; then’ liands also Were covemd with chilblains, and tlieir lips were so swollen snd chapped, that every motion in speaking brought blood.

MOUNT ETNA,

THE ISLAND OF SICILY.

Now under snlpUmoiis Ciinia’s sca-boiind coast.

And vast Sicilia, lie.-i t!ie sliaggy breast Of snowy .'Etna, nurse of endless frost,

Tlie pillared prop of lieaven, for ever pressed :

Tortli from whose sulph’roiis caverns issuing rise fhirc liquid fountains of tempestuous lire.

>> hicli veil in ruddy mists tbc noon-day skies,

While wrapt in smoke the eddyiii'' flames aspire, or gieaniiiig thro tlie iiiglil with hideou.s roar.

Far o’er the redd'ning main huge rooky fragmcntR pour

But ho, Vnlcanian monster, to the clouds ^1"' fiereost, hottest inundations tlii ows.

While, with tlie burden of incumbent woods,

And .Etna's gloomy cliffs o'erwhelincd he glows. ,

8 MOwNTAISS.

TliPrc on liis flinty lied outstretched he lies,

Wiiose pointed rock his tossing carcase wounds ;

Tiiere with dismay he strikes beholding eyes,

Or tViehts llie distant car with horrid sounds.

® West

The majestic Etna, which the ancients considered, no( unreasonably, ns one of the highest mountains in Uie world, and on the summit of which they believed that Deucalion and I’yn-ha sought reiltge, to save themselves from tlie uni- versal deluge, is situated on the plain of Catania, ni

Sicilv. ^ . ,•

It's elevalioii above the level of the sea has been esti- mated at 10,963 feet,, upwards of two miles. On deal days it is distincllv seen from Valetta, the capital of Malta, a distance of 150 mUes. It is incomparably the lai'gest bumini'' mountain in Europe. From its sides other moun- tains aiise, which; in diftbrent ages, have been ejected m

cinde ma.sses from its enormous crater, ihe most exten- sive lavas of Vesuvius do not exceed seven miles in length, wliile those of Etna extend to fifteen, twenty, and some even to tlurh'’’ miles. 'Ihc emter of Etna, is seldom less lha*i a mile in circuit, and sometimes is two or three miles; bitt tlie ciraimference of the Vesiivian crater is never more than half a mile, even when widely distended, in its most destructive conflagrations. Lastly, the earthquakes occa- sioned by these adjacent volcanoes, their eraptions, then- sliowers of ignited stones, and the destruction and deso- lation vvdiich they create, are severaUy proportionate to tlicir respective dimensions. . _

A journey up Etna is considered as an enterprise or importance, as well from the difficulty of the route, as from tlie distance, it being thirty miles from Catania to the sum- mit of the mountain. Its gigantic bulk, its sublime elevation, and the extensive, varied, and grand prospects which are presented from its summit, have, howper, indu- ced the curious in every age to ascend and examine it ; and not a few have transmitted, tlirough the press, tlie observa- tions which they have made during their arduous journey. From its vast base it rises like a pyramid to tlie perpen- dicular height of two miles, by an acchvity nearly equal on all sides, forming with tlie horizon an angle of atoul frftccn degrees, which becomes greater on approaclung

Distant View of Etna.

Etna hy Moonlight.

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I

M0UKTAIN3. 9

the crater ; but the inclination of the steepest part of ihe wne no where exceeds an angVe of forty-five degrees. This prodigious volcano may be likened to a forge, ■W'bich, in proportion to the violence of the fire, to the nature of tlie fossil matters on which it acts, and or the gases which urge and set it in motion, produces, destroys, and reproduces, a variety of forms.

The top of Etna being above the common region of vapours, the heavens, at this elevation, appear with an Unusual splendour. Brydone and his company observed, as tl'ey ascended in the night, that the number of the stars seemed to be infinitely increased, and the light of each Was brighter than usual. The whiteness of tlie milky way was like a pure flame which .spread across the heavens ; and, with the naked eye, they could observe clusters stars which were invisible from below. They like- wise noticed several of those meteors called falling stars, which appeared as much elevated here as when viewed from the plain beneath.

Ihis single mountain contains an epitome of the different Climates throughout the world, pre.scnting at once all die seasons ot tlie year, and all the varieties of produce. It is accordingly divided into three distinct zones or region', which may be distinguished as the torrid, temperate, and *’^‘gid, but which are known by the names of the cultivated region, the woody or temperate region, and the frigid or esen region. The former of tliese extends through twelve dibbr °K towards the summit, and is almost iiicre-

It i ■ .*tt pastm-es and fruit-trees of every discription.

s covered with towns, villages, and monasteries ; and the tnhabitants ilistributed over its .surface is estimated 20,000. In ascendinv to the woody or temperate region, the scene changes; ' ° *

, it is a new climate, a new creation.

fr*^ is suffocating ; hut here, the air is mild and

1- is covered wi til aromatic plants ; and tlie

gu s, winch formerly ejected torrents of fire, are changed n o Woody vallies. Than this nothing can be more pic- ^esque, the inequality of the soil displaying every mo- lent some variety of scene ; here, the ash and flowering lorns torm domes of verdure j and there, the chesnut-trees to a inost enormous size. The one called caslagno de « cavalLi, according to Brydone and Glover, has a circum- B 3

MOUNTAINS.

fercnce or20 J- feet. INLuiy of the oaks also are of a pro- digious size . Mr. Swinburne measured one which had circumference of 28 feet. I’lie last, or desert region, com. mence.s more tlian a mile above tlie level of the sea The lower part is covered with snow in w'inter only ; but on the upper h;df of this sterile district the snows coit stantly lie.

Sometimes tlie pencil, in cool airy lialls,

Hade the gay bloom of vernal landscapes ri.se,

Or Aiitiimii'.s varied .sliades imbrown the walls :

Now tbe black tempest .strikes th’ astonished eyes.

Now dovMi tlie steep llic flashing tonent flies ;

Tlic trembling sun now plays o’er ocean bine.

And now rude inoniitains frown amid the skies ; M’hate’er Lorraine light- tonclied with soft'ning hue.

Or savage Rosa dashed, or learned Poussin drew.

Thomson

The ujipcr part, which may properly be called the cone of Kina, is, in a right line, about a mile, or somewhat more, in ascent. It is described by Sir William Hamilton as a little mountain, about a rpiarter of a mile perpendi- cular, and very steep, situated in the middle of a gently- inclined plane, about nine mile.s in circumference. The cavity was, according to his perception, shaped like a funnel, diminishing until it ternfinated in a point, and having an outer circumference of two miles and a half round. Great changes have since taken place. Spallanzani also reached the edge of the crater, and found it to be an oval of about a mile and a half in drcult, having its edges in many places indented by projecting lavas or scori.x. The bottom was neiu’ly a horizontal plane, about two-thirds of a mile in cir • cu ni fercnce ; hence issued a constant column of smoke , and hence, as well as from the sides, arose .several streams of smoke, resembling thin clouds. Within the aperture a liquid ignited matter was clearly seen, constantly undu- lating, boiling, rising and falling, witlrout spreading ovci the bottom. This was, no doubt, the melted lava which had issued from the bottom of the gulf. Neither of the above travellers, nor Brydone, dared to venture down the crater, which they found too hot ; but M. D’Orville, more adventurous, by tlie means of ropes, which two or three men held at a distance, descended aa fnt a.s possible. His

Great Crater of Etna.

0

MouxrAiNS.

Tiuw was, in a great measure, intercepted by the small flames and smoke ; but in the centre he saw a mass of matter, which rose in the shape of a cone, to the height ot about sixty feet.

On the vastness and beauty of the prospect, frorn the summit of Etna, nU authors agree 3 and Spallanzani ob- serves, that there is not, perhaps, any elevated region on the whole globe which offers at one view so fine an ex- tent of sea and land. M. Honel was stationed there at sun-rise, when the 'horizon was clear, and without a single cloud. The coast of Calabria was, be says, undistinguishable from the adjoining sea 3 but in a short time a fiery radi- ance began to appear from behind those Italian hiUs which, bounded the eastern part ^of the prospect. The fleecy clouds which generally appear early in the morning, were tinged with purple 3 tlie atmosphere became strongly illu- minated, and, reflecting the rays of the sun, seemed to be filled with a bright refulgence of flame. Although the heavens were tlius enlightened, the sea still retained its dark azure, and the fields and forests did not yet reflect the rays of the sun. The gradual rising of this luminary, however, soon diffused liglit over the hills which lie below the peak of Etna. This last stood like an island in the midst of the ocean, with luminous points multiplying every moment around, and spreading over a wider extent witli the greatest rapidity. It was, said he, as if the world had been observed suddenly to spring from the night of non-exis-

Ere t!ie rising sun

Shone o’er t!ie deep, or ’mid the viiult of night The moon her silver lamp suspended : ere The vales with springs were watered, or with groves Of oak or pine the ancient lulls were crowned 3 Then the Great Spirit, wiimn his works adore.

Within his ow n deep e.ssi ni;o viewed tiie forms.

The forms eternal of created lliiugs:

The radiant sun ; the moon’s nocturnal lamp ;

The mountains and the streams : the amide stores Of earth', of heaven, of Nature. Krum the first,

On that full scene his love divine he fixed,

His admiration. Till, in time complete,

What he admired and loved his vital jiower Unfolded into being. Hence lire breath Of life informing each organic frame :

12 MOUNTAINS.

Hence the green earth, and wiM resonndiug waves ;

Hence light and shade, alternate ; warmth and cold ;

And bright autumnal skies, and vernal showers,

And all the fair variety of tilings. Akensidb,

The most sublime object, however, which the summit of Etna presents, is die immense mass of its own colossal body. Its upper region exhibits rough and craggy cliffs, rising pei-pendicularly, fearful to die view, and surrounded by an as.semblage of fugitive clouds, to increase the wiki variety of the scene. Amid the multitude of woods in the middle or temperate region, are numerous mountains, which, in any other situation, would appear of a gigantic size, bat which, compared to Etna, are mere mole-liills. Lastly, the eye contemplates widi admiration the lower re- gion, the most extensive of the three, adorned with elegant villas and castles, verdant hills and floweiy fields, and ter- minated by the extensive coast, where, to die south, stands the beautiful city of Catania, to which the waves of the neighbouring sea serve as a mirror.

Etna has been celebrated as a volcano from the remotest antiquity. Eruptions are recorded by Diodorus Siculus ns having happened 500 years before the Trojan war, or i6g3 years before the Christian era.

lEtna roais with dreadful niin.s nigh,

Now hurls a bursting cloud of cinders liigli,

Involved in smoky wliirlwimls to the sky ;

With loud displosioii to the starry frame,

Shoots fiery globes, and furious floods of flame :

Now from her bellowing caverns hurst away ■

Vas-t piles of melted rocks in open day.

Her shattered entrails wide the mountain throws.

And deep as hell her flaming centre glows.

Varton

In 1 66g, the toment of burning lava inundated a space fourteen miles in lengthy and four in orcadih, bur}niig beneath it a part of Catania, till at length it precipitated itself into the sea. For several months before die lava broke out, die old mouth, or great crater of the sumnii,, was observed to send forth much smoke and flame, aud the top had fallen in, so that the mountain was much Icrwered.

Eighteen days before, the skv was very thick and dark.

, MOUNTAINS. 13

plunder, lightning, frequent concussions of the earth, ^ dreadful subterraneous bellowings. On the Itth of arch, about sun-set, an immense gulf opened in the Mountain, into which when stones were thrown, they not be heard to strike the bottom. Ignited rocks, een teet in lengtli, were hurled to the distance of a mile 5 e others of a smaller size were earned three miles, unng the night, the red-hot lava burst out of a vine- ^5 twenty miles below tlie great crater, and ascended ^ considerable height. In its course it de- oyed 5000 habitations, and filled up a lake several fathoms ^p. It shortly after reached Catania, rose over the walls, snC p- considerable lengtli into the sea, forming fillpri^ harbour, which was, however, soon

file Qt torrent of inflamed matter. This is

. the hideous deformit)’’ of which, devoid of ve-

g a ion, still disfigures tlie south and western borders of ania, and on which part of the noble modern city is built, of t “towers of scoriae and sand which, after a lapse callp'l°fl/f followed this eraption, formed a mountain a tv Rosso, having a base of about two miles, and

of 750 feet. On the 25tli, the whole a to tlie most elevated peak, was agitated by

wbirii earthquake. The highe.st crater of Etna,

■sunk loftiest part of tlie mountain, then

occuniprT n ' °lcanic gulf, and in the place which it had raore^Uiana*??! t'PPeared nothing but a wide gulf, nuantirio- c extent, from which issued enormous

In 180(f rf

flowm thp new craters opened about half way

by which and tlirew out rivers of burning lava,

w forty feef^ a estates were covered to the depth of thirty large ri vpv c j , '“S ^’^oe or fbui' successive nights a very extent Ti, ^ was distinctly seen, in its wliolo

In ’*81 flown fi-om the mountain.

Mountain r mouths opened on the eastern side of tlie distances ti nearly in tlie same line, and at equal fade,— ton-plf/ presented to the view a striking spec- greatest forrp / burning matter, discharged with the *l>e horizon to°*” interior of the volcano, illuminated Matter wh‘ I, ^ great extent. An immense quantity of ' Was dnven to considerable distances, was dis-

4 AUUNTAI^i.

charged from these apertures, the lai'gest of ■which conti- nued for several months to emit torrents of fire. Even at the time when it had the appearance of being choked, tliere suddenly issued from it clouds of ashes, which de- scended, in the form of rain, on die city of Catania and its' environs, as well ;)s on the fields .situated at a very consider- able distance. A roaring, resembling that of die sea in the midst of a tempest, was heard to proceed from the interior of die mountain; and this sound, accompanied from time to time by dreadfiil explosions, resembling dmnder, re-choed through the vallies and spread terror on every side.

MOUNT VESUVIUS,

NEAR NAPLES.

The fluid lake that works below.

Bitumen, sniphur, salt, and iron scum.

Heaves up its boilin™ tide. The lab’riBg mount Is torn with agonizing throes. At miee,

Forth from its side disparted, blazing pours A mi'ditv river ; Innniiig ill prone waves,

Tliat"gli’nimer tliro’ tlie night, to jondcr plain Divided there, a hmulred torrent streams.

Each ploughing up its bod, roll dreadful on,

K-csistless. Vill'ages, and woods, and rocks,

Fail flat before tlieir sweep. Tlie region round.

Where myrtle walks and grove.s of golden fruit UoSe fair ; where, harvc.st waved in all its pride ;

And wliere the vineyard .spveail its purple store,

Maturing into nectar ; now despoiled

Of hell), leaf, fruit ami flower, from end to end

Lies buried midev fire, a glowing sea! Mallet.

This celebrated volcano, which has for so many ages attracted the attention of mankind, and tlie desolating eruptions of wliich have been so often and so fatally expe- ilenced, is distant, in an eastern direction, about seven miles from Naples, It rises, insulated, upon a vast and well-cultivated plain, presenting tw'o suiiimits on tlie same base in which particular it resembles Mount Parnassus. One' of thqse, T,a Somma, is generally agreed to have been the Vesuvius of Strabo and the ancients ; the other, hav- ing the greatest elevation, is the mouth of the volcano, which almost constantly emits smoke. Its height above thft

MOUNTAINS. 15

is 3 ,900 ibet , ,iiv.l it m;iy bo ascended by tliroe I t eient routes, Avhieh are all very steep and difficult, from >e conical^ form o! the moiuiiaiu, and the loose ashes uch slip trora under tlie feet : still, from the base to the svirumit the distance is not more than three Italian miles. I lie circuinterenco cf the platform on the top, is 5,024 eet, or nearly a mile. I'hcuce may be seen Porlici, Jscliia, Pausilippo, and the whole coast of the Naples, bordered with orange tress : the prospect IS hat of Paradise seen from the infernal regions.

^ J!) approaching die mountain, its aspect does not con- vt} «iiiy impression of terror, nor is it gloomy, being cul- itated tor more than two-thirds of its height, and having Its brown top alone barren. There all verdure ceases; ) et, when it appears covered with clouds, wdiich sometimes enconipass it^ middle only, this circumstance rather adds to lan dctiacts from the magnificence of the spectacle, pon the lavas which the volcano long ago ejected, and w nch, like great furrows, extend into the plain, and to le sea, are built houses, villages, and towns. Gardens, neyards, and cultivated fields, surround them ; but a en iment ot sorrow, blended with apprchetisioiis about uie future, arises 0.1 the recollection that, beneadi a soil so m u and so .smiling, lie edifices, gardens, and whole WW115 swallowed up. Porlici rests upon Herculaneum; Pomn'™'* upon Resina ; and at a little distance is fecn c streets of which, after more than seven- now wa'lk^'^'^^A”^ non-existence, the astonished traveller year of tf" ^ long interval of repose, in the fest

Chrl-ttn fi^ign of Titus, (the seventy-ninth of the thick d' v'olcano suddenly broke out, ejecting

Herrni and pnmice-stones, beneath which

fiad Stabia, and Pompeii, were completely bu-

torian ^ijuption was fatal to the elder Pliny, the his- scienee to his humanity and love of

rememK J'*' speakiifg of Vesuvius, the

‘ feeret 1°^ untimely death excites a melancholy

Was on t) Naples

sentinel n 'tl occasion, ravaged and destroyed, pre-

from fr ° “ luug succession of ejected matters

om Herculaneum to Stahl,

how

aneuni to Stabia. The destruction did not.

1^'® western part, but stopped at api«, which suffered comparatively little.

MOUNTAINS.

Thirty-eight eiuptions of Vesuvius are lecorded in his- tory up to the year 1806. That of 1779 lias been described by Sir William Hamilton as among the most remarkable from its exUaordinary and terrific appearance. During tire whole of July the mountain was in a state of consider- able fermentation, subterraneous explosions and rumbling noises being heard, and quantities of smoke thrown up ■witli great violence, sometimes w'ith red-hot stones, .scoria*, and ashes. On the 5th of August die volcano was greatly agitated, a wdiite sulphureous smoke, apparently four time.5 the height and size of the volcano itself, issuing from the crater, at the same lime that vast quantities of stones, &c. w*erc throivn up to the supposed height of 2000 feet. The liquid lava, having cleared die rim of die crater, flowed down die sides of the mountain to the distanetj kif four miles. The air was darkened by showers of reddish ashes, blended w’idi long filaments of a vitrified matter resembling glass.

On the 7th, at midnight, a fountair of fire .shot up from tlie crater to an incredible height, casting so bright a light that the smallest objects were clearly distinguishable at any place widiin six miles of the volcano. On the following evening, after a tremendous explosion, w'hich broke tlie windows of the houses at Portici, another fountain of liquid fire rose to the suiqirising height of I0,CXX) feet, (nearly tw'o miles,) wiiile puffs of the blackest smoke accompa- nied the red-hot lava, inteiTupting its splendid brightne.ss heie and diere by patches of the darkest hue. I'lie lava was partly directed by the wind towards Ottaiano, on which so thick a shower of ashes, blended with vast pieces of sccaiEe, fell, that, had it been of longer continuance, that towm w*ould have shared the fate of Pompeii. It took fite in several places ; and liad there been much wind, the inhabitants would have been burned in their houses, it being impossible for them to stir out. To add to the horror of the scene, incessant volcanic lightning darted through the black cloud which surrounded tliem, while the sulphu- reous smell and heat would scarcely allow them to draw their breath. In this dreadful state they remained nearly half an hour. The remaining part of the lava, still red-hot and liquid, fell on the top of Vesuvius, and covered it.s whole cone, together with tliat of La Somma, and the valley

Vesuoiiis and UsaitUs.

Vesiieiaa in Kruplion.

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coSrnof'be complete body of fire.,

breadth, and castino- a f, ‘'f " miles and a half m miles around, “ ^ ^ distance of at least .six

The eruption nfi'^n i-

above writer • but h-i/,T f i*ccurately described by (he llie one cited’ above ' -ci°„ of interest with

'vhich is a circumstanrp ^n particulars, anioiuj

toan e,stiinate of t it lead!

dham says that althontPff volcanoe.s. Sir

"•as instantly Srm.id 2 ,

saved themselves bv ‘ lava, the inhabitants

on tlie followino- X f P' “’® tops of their houses tlrat if this lava Si bleu hot f tMr. Kirwan, most fusible stones, these iP, . ™elt even the

focated. " ® peisoits must have been suf-

aT“n5?, S wa? ^n

earthquake, which “ >*imck of an

same moment a fountain' m ';et7 black smoke and ? " with a

tise to a considerable heio-ht ^‘'1^”"^’ to issue, and ^one ,of Vesuvius Tt“ ^ te middle of the

fountains, fifteen of which 2*^ hastily succeeded by other

J^fong, for the spacrif i '=°!tnted, all in a direct line,

fipry scene-^tlfs o-i- !• and lone del Greco. This

{I'fd hytheion'tK^^^ nature-was ac^ontit

Jhe those of a 1^^' ‘""f °P^hich,

« continued hollow r[°t 1 ^t^teiided by

f .the ocean durinP.? P’ °P tlie roaring

resembled that of fP"' "^"°‘her blowinl

'■^kets. ThehouscsafN^e"'“"'f^^ of

extant ti-emour thf d ^ hours in a

«tthng incessanti; fl f '‘haking and

‘^“ment the skyfw 'T.-^fh/inging. At tl, is “awful ecame obscured - tb ' '*ght lull-moon and star-light,

mentations of a nn^ ^ murmur ot the prayers and processions, and para^Pthe various

^ ^ streets, added to (he lioirors

ollowing (lay a new mouth was opened on tlie

mountains.

opposite side of SJ'd

from this apertorc < Ou-oyo-h a wood, Avhich it burnt ;

ran with nm^ ihi’ee miles in a few

but stopped, aftc . g . ^,,^1 cultivated lands,

hours, before d reached di® ^ ^ mouths on

Th=l™,s.«btad^^^

the soutlr-side of tnc moun . , destroyed the

it ran, after having ovcrvvfcd bi^m^ greater part of I8.OOO

which It took its course. 1 the exception of

inhabitants, all °f w ■ "‘d •„iiivmitv', were ovev-*

about fifteen, who, ‘ Its'rapid progress

itct s“'^‘

a«v,»,«U .<.« time “fS

part of tliQ crater '^^*1 which war coujcc-

the volcano. o Vesuvius, were of such »

nowwidcly-extendcd moudi of V

density as to appear to ,„other, and, suC'

difficulty. One cloud leaped it ^ hoaf

ceeding each other of the darkest hu-^'

such a gigantic and cl . threaten Naples wd

over tlie mountain, as .gbecubentovc'

Immediate destruction, j too massive and po"'

the city, and appeanng to b® ”

derous to remain long ^ Vesuvius remained id J

From the above tune ^ I^Tiuntoms a frc^>'

From me auovc - CY„„toms of a fi'C^*

state of almost fondant janq* by^

eraphon ^^d mam^ August. j

when at len^ , Hermitage of Salvador, d'

rVil?bhX»"

... mountains. 19

r,. j covered (he rvliole volcano. In tlie evening

fire were lieard ; and at Naples a culiunn of

in a o(* from the aperture, canying up stones

crater ignition, which fell again into llie

acenni^o • Avhieh these igneous explosions were

lejinvif yesembled tlie^ roaring of the most dreadftrl the ceiortt” • P whistling ot the most furious winds ; while such rln/tt'"'^ j- . ^tibstauces were ejected was w-is ) 1 emission had not terminated when it

lime i} second. Small monticules were at this

of a reil t*^ ^ matter, resembling a vitreous paste crater • which flowed from the mouth of the

as li‘c mWter a«lnuTaTel‘""”® considerable in proportion

fire^dap-^^'^pL^^? erupti.on continued for several days, the noises On th^ oi^i with frequent and dreadful

aperture eieclinu^fire symptoms, anotlier

was seen fr stones, situated behind the crater,

escaijedfrom^l^^^^ P^' burning mass of lava which

guished from following day, was distin-

vitreous Zl the appearance of a

mountarn W advancing towards tlie base of tlie tile base on tl"^ south and south-west. It reached

leas than twem having flowed from the aperture, in

Its mean brenHm^™^ bonrs, a distance of 3,053 teet, while 800 feet. In -f 'Appeared to be about 350, but at the base Itnally reachcri ‘^°“''se it divided into four branches, and entire process r* Guide’s Retreat. Its

taking a mean „*? cnore tlian a mile, so that,

eighty-six P‘°P°ttion, tliis lava flowed at Lhe rate of At tlie f ^ an hour.

^^cauvius 1:^^ eruption Kotzebue was at Naples,

dark he could F*® window, and when it was

fire rolled rl q perceive in what manner the masses ■Tiering of mountain. As long as any glim-

to be seen m ^Itat part of tlie mountain was

straight but nl declivity of which the lava formed a Pci'tectly rhrk- soon, however, as it was

'be eye, it 1 .P niou-ntain itself had vanished from tile sky. U'c,. ^ a comet witli a long tail stood in ble ascenderl f,°'^bacle was awful and grana !

le mountain on tlie morning succeeding

20 MOUNTAINS,

the opening of a new gulf^ and approached the crater nearly as pnidence would allow. From its centre ascendeii tlie sulphureous yellow cone which the eruption of this year had formed : on the other side, a thick smoke pcipe- tually arose from the abyss opened during the preceding night. The side of the crater opposite to him, wliich rose considerably higher than that on which he stood, ailbrdcd a singular aspect ; for it was covered with little pillars of smoke, which burst forth from it, and had some resell)' blance to extinguished lights. The air over the crater was actually embodied, and was clearly to be seen in a tremU' lous motion. Below, it boiled and roared dreadfully, like tlie most violent hurricane ; but occasionally a sudden deadly stillness ensued for some moments, after which the roaring recommenced with double vehemence, and the smoke, burst forth in thicker and blacker clouds. It was, he observes, as if the spirit of the mountain had suddenly tried to stop tlie gulf, while the flames indignantly refused to endure tiie confinement.

It is remarkable, that the great eruption of 1 805 hap' pened on the 12tli of August, within a day of tliat of tlie preceding year Subterraneous noises had been previously heard, and a general apprehension of some violent con)' motion prevailing, the inhabitants of Torre del Greco and Annunciada had left their homes, through the apprehension of a shower of fire and ashes, similar to that which buried Pompeii. The stream of lava took the same course witl* that of J 79^j described above, one of the arms following the direction of the great road, and rolling towards tlie sea- The stream soon divided again, and spreading itself wilh an increiised celeiity, swept away many houses and tlie finest -plantations. The otlier branch, at first, took tlie direction of Portici, which was threatened j but turning, and joining the preceding one, formed a sort of islet of boiling lava in the middle, botli ending in die sea, and composing a promontory of volcanic matters. In the space of twenty minutes the whole extent of ground which the lava occupied was on fire, otfering a terrible yet singular spsC' tadc, as die burning trees presented die aspect of whit® flames, in contrast with those of the volcanic matiei's- which were red. The lava swept along with it enormous masses of whatever occiured in its course, and, on it*

Interior of the Crater of Vesuvius.

Crater of Etna.

«

-p , . mountains, 31

great ^ ^

from the conflict of die ^Sei auSSe ^

lion of 1 806,"^hic°/ vvitlf'^'T notice of the erap-

Place on die’ evening nf sensible indication, look

frame rose from the mn ^ briglit

fret, sinking ^

a light, diat°a letter mil ht ’’ “frording so clear

of a league aro.iL iP H'e distance

moniinc;, without m On the following

customary, the volcaim*l^rv^T^^- been

from three new rimml inflamed substances

about G.50 feet from «’ to each' other, and direction of Torre del r,-'^ ®timmit. The lava took die Portici, on the road i„^v° ■^riiimiciata, approaching

Tlirougliout the whole of tb ^ Naples to Pompeii, beard, resemblino- that n/i

discharges of arttUerv anH engaged, when the

current of lava '^t^isk. The

frtsioii, sparks and i a wall of glass in a state of

bme. widi a nowerfi i a *®^tnng from it from time to 'Whatever obiectn? i ®‘°"“‘’°"- frees, liouses,-

*n«lanilv overtlir^, ^ tort, it encountered on its way, were tPet with the re«‘ I*^ destroyed. In one part, where it Are. In a ® "'a}k it formed a cascade of

'vere covered wwV , '"'‘^1. Resina, and Torre del Greco, on tire ninth rhp thrown out by the volcano 5 and,

frt'ck black rain n ftelaged with a

sulphureous pa,tipW ® ™ud tilled with

Crater li.'id whollv H'"' S duly, die ancient

und a nS PP®^”-®d. being filled with ashes aird Ij'c niountnin nhnnf^r/v'^‘''.f formed in die eastern part of same wklih nr ri depth, and '‘aviiig about

above day, d^\scendn T Several persons, on the

fdmiring die s^^et. 1 ' “ear the flames,

bubbled up at tile'll! P‘®'‘^®ulcd by the liquid lava, which

„ "^itts eruption continued uiiti

^ the mos’t tekibbThat "h T^’ as 01

*b« inhabitants occurred in die memory

22

M0UNTAIS3,

MOUNT HECLA,

IN ICELAND.

Still pressini on bpyond Toi nea’s lake,

And Hecla flaming tlirongii a waste of snow,

And farthest Greenland, to the Pole itself,

AVhere, falling gradual, life at length goes out,

The Muse expands her solitary flight;

And hov’ring o'er the wide stupendous scene,

Beholds n#w scenes beneath another sky.

Throned in his palace of cernlcan iee.

Here Winter holds his nniejoicing court.

And through his iiiry hall the loud misrule Of driving tempest is for ever heard ;

Here the grim tyrant meditates his wrath ;

Here arms his winds with all subduing frost.

Moulds his fierce hail, and treasmes up hit snows,

dtj proceeding along the soutliern coast of Iceland, and at an inconsiderable distance from Skaalholt, this mountain) with its three summits, presents itself to the view. Its height is five tliousand feet, or nearly a mile above the level of the sea. It is not a promontory, but lies about four miles inland. It is neither so elevated nor so pictu- resque as several of the surrounding Icelandic uiountaiiis , but has been more noticed than many otlier volcanoes of aU equal extent, partly tlirough tile frequency of its eruptions) and partly from its situation, which exposes it to tlie vieW cf many ships sailing to Greenland and Nortli America- The surrounding territoiy has been so devastated by thesd eruptions, that it has been, deserted.

Vast regions dreary, bleak, and bare 1 There on an icy mountain’s height,

.Seen only by the Moon’s pale light,

Stern Winter rears his giant form,

His robe a mist, his life a storm : '•

His frown the sliiv’riug nations fly,

Aind, hid for half the year, in smoky caverns lie

The natives asserted lliat it was impossible to 3Bcefl<^ the mountain, on account of tlie great number of dangef' ous bogs, which, according to them, are constantly emit' ting sulpliureous flames, and exhaling smoke j while th®

I

I

I

ii

ri

f

I

ftior mountains. 23

summit m the centre is covered with boiling *«wke. TnT'''' if"' "'i continually propel fire and ’Oost afflictincr^° ? A environs present the

»he Sol r' Su“‘ the finest part

ashes ^ hcmg covered by torrents of melted stone,

'"^tich,betwee^ ri,°‘^®'' notwithstanding

Portiow ® *;tmosities of the lava in different parts! obierved broken hedges may

*^'d east sides , ? ,^'®''‘'*station is still greater on tlie north country- h -'f di'eadful maces of the ruin of

'’’■® to be met wifi ! habitations. Neither plants nor grass tltoontaiu, in con 1*° ‘he extent of two leagues round the stones and lava • of the soU being covered with

ous fire has broken ^''h'^te the subterrane-

tvhich was not cnf ■T'^ second time, or where the matter .the fire lias conrr:i'“:^‘^°usumed has again become ignited,

' 'td Sw horm smalfred and black hil

^'iTiinence.q. fvr^r>. „• .

and eirnn small red and blacl^

ashes, d'he nearer!?'^' pumice-stones, and

f/hs, and there mountain the larger are these hil-

t/tttt a circular hdlnw"^! "‘’‘hem. the summits of which

f circular hnim . “ ‘hem, the summits of which .,1 - niatter. On ! ’ M-hence Uie subterraneous fire ejects

.'t'most approaching Hecia the ground becomes

paihcularlv near iIir branches ot

r'°'t imn'assatu t‘PPto-'>ching Hecia the grou _ j!''® throum .ft-ticularly near the higher branches ol ??ntain of h " ycicano. Hound tire latter is a v^tty to seventv f “!’^®ting of large fused stones, from Thersmn ^"Slb and in the form of a rampai-t o?

*ru_

■ Si,

'■•om ir.,ppicr!f away .'■Dcliiinis the soil o'* '"ake the land a prey;

scorns Z.l "0"'

T , “"“h the distant i

•^°»eph Backs

t sun.

I*r. Solander, Dr. James Liad, ot

OJ. MOUSTATNS.

E<^mbaMi.an<i Dr. Van Troil, a SAvede, were dre ear bcj nCZrous travellers who ascended to the summit ^

Mount Hecla. This was in 177? 5 bid

.f-ii-itinted bv a preceding eruption m 1/00, ''b'cn gready din/nished the steepness and .difficulty of the • Snt. On their first landing, they lound a.tract of Lty or seventy miles in extent, entirely tinned by Sh appeared to have been in a state of complete b tiuefacdon. To accomplish then undei taking, the) .j- U^vel from three hundred to diree hundred and sixty mi over u h terrupted tracts of lava. In ascending, they Xed to quit dieir horses at die first opemng fi^

vidikh the fire had burst : -a spot ivdiich “y

presentiuo- lofty glazed walls and high glazed cliffs, KomW ffiing they had ever seen before. At niSmiiiK above, diey fancied they discerned the eftec ■

water; and^ot fiir irom thence, die mounbj with die exception of some bare spots, was corned This difference of a.spect diey soon peicened o

I excepiiou ui ^

Sttow. Tliis difference of aspect tliey soon perceived

... ^ 1 3 llj,!. ti.ocf. cimts he.caii '

occasioned by Uie Hot vapour ascraiu.ug ,

Tlie higher they proceeded, tile larger these spot - i, and, about two hundred yards below the summ , . ^

about a yard and a half in diameter, was obsened, wl Issued so hot a steam, that they codd not ^

The cold now he^

'jl

degree ot beat witii a tneiiuuiiici^*. , *

to be very intense. Fahrenheit’s thermometer, the foot of the moirataiii was at 54, fell to 24 ; wind became so violent, that diey were sometimes °bh=^ lie down, from a dread of being blown >

dreadful precipices. On the summit itselt P ,

atone and the same time, a high degree of heat and ^4 fb.-, in the air, Fahrenheit’s thermometer constantly at 24, but when placed on the ground, it rose to 53. /

Messrs. Olafsen and Povelsen, two naturalists, -J travels in Iceland were undptaken by order of his V a Majesty, after a fatiguing jom-iwy up several small s y vH'^ch occurred at intervals, and seven ot which th^j^ to pass, at length reached the summit of Momit ^ Duidnio-ht. It was as light as at noon day, so that dier ^ a vlcw°of an immense extent, but could perceive nO but ice : neither fissures, streams of water, boiling sp ^ wnoke, nor fire, were apparent. They surv'eyed tbe

. . mountains.

ers in Lie eastern part, and in tlie distance saw tiie his;h wliicti'^^'"'*^ mountain of Hairdabrcid, an ancient volcano, S- ■ l‘ke a large castle.

aacLnlat-n a!t recent travels in Icclaiul,

the folio account wo exlnict

23

comcr“aLrSe having a Binall lake in onir

C'-ilar fice nf °hPosite extremity bounded by a ])erpendi- «lin n^^V resembling, i^. Us broke./ and iWged

lion of his hi'n - the clouds, and the brilliant rebec- h.va, as if from'.f’ ilitferent parts of this supposed

hy the instantaneoiI’”*,.^*^^-°^ delighted our traveller

«"t-‘ of the princinnLm!!'?""" “'at he had ..ow aUaineil expedition to Icclmd^^’’ u'''* *;""nected with the plan of his his wishes were Vnllv hastened to the .spot, and all an ofaiect wliir-i ‘iccomphshed in the examination of formed. On gmatly exceeded the expectations he had rose out of ./.’’.‘^^"’■hng one of the abrupt pinnacles, wiiich region the d. f.^^^'^^rdinaiy mass of rock, he beheld a r«wi -!•«* 1» prolUed.

to distant ‘ hs> craters, and lava, leading the eye

tlie mist ri<J "^'*^owned jockuls, (inferior mountains,) among bare ‘t '"'ater-faU j lakes, embosomed

lowering' cloiiriT*^ mountains ; an awful profound silence : of the most dei ti‘^.rhs all around of the ftirions action pre.ss the .soul wi.^'^“' ‘^ elements ; all combined to im- “nger himself ^ ^‘'“t'tions of dread and wonder. I'he scene, the mnv„^“' ,, oompanions contemplated this

tmd a cousidcroiT 'c ‘ “'“t oyes from

Vliemselves to ‘‘me elapsed before they could bring

d>em to enter husiness which had tempted

Havintr procppci f “ "1 a district of tlie country.

®f a stream of kvf “ ‘=°“‘“erable distance along tire edge fe, S»ined the crossed,

^yhile, in ascendincr ti°^ south-end of Mount Hecla, “ley experienced nn rugged lava,

^hen they react, ri difficulty in advancing j but

"«Pf P« of .1,0

overed with loose slags, they sometimes lost J

26

MOUNTAIWS.

TMC step, bj tlie yielding of these, a space which had beeP gained by several.

Having passed a number of fissures, by leaping acros’ some, and stepping along masses of slags winch lay oyer Olliers, they at length reached the summit of the firs' peak. The clouds now became so thick, that they began to despair of being able to proceed any further : it was. indeed, dangerous even to move ; for tJie jieak consists ot a very narrow ridge of slags, not more than two fetk broad, having a precipice on each side, several hundre feet in depth. One of tlie.se precipices forms the side ot vast hollow, which seems to have been one of the craters. A' length the sky cleared a little, and enabled them to di.scovcT a ridge below, which seemed to connect the peak they ba‘ asceiHed with the middle or principal one. They lost time in availing themselves of this opixirtunity, and, bf balancing tliemseircs like rope-dancers, succeeded in pass- ing along a ridge of slags, so narrow, that there scarcely room for their feet. After a short, but very .steep| ascent, they gained the highest part of this celebrate mountain. _ ,

Its earliest eruption Ls said to have happened in since which time upwards of twenty have occurred. Th- of 1693 was the most dreadfial, and occasioned teyrib^ devastations, the ashes having been thrown over the islau^ in every direction, to the distance of more than one hi«'' dred miles. In 172S, a fire broke out among the siif' rounding lava ; and also in that to the west of the volcano j in 1 754 , which lasted for three days. There has not bc^ any eruption of lava since 1766; but for some jeivrs flames issued from tlie volcano.

THE GEYSERS.

Kor stops tlie restless fliiiil, monntins still, Tlio’ oft amid tli’ iri ijsious vale of springs ; But to the mountain courted by the sand. That leads it darkling on in faithful niiuse. Far from the parent-main, it boils again Fic.sh into day; and all the glittering hill la bright with spoiitiiijr rill».

Th

mountains.

Ami vreiriilr * ’“'"Is “ lml)l)liii!' p,-issa;;e bnri-t ;

• Tiiojisox

2r

being 'Viter springs,

*ire, so visihlp. ii operation.s of subtemmeoiis-

“ft- p^p-iy

of Mount Hccla, given

They

parsed' over th'^wb volcanoes, but are dis-

»" the .»n,„|r3tev?™3’

wrgest and most n-iv.., -i m mountains. The

held, about sixteen miie^ f «in"ited in a lai’ge-

great distance from "t «knlholt. At a

red with ice ™ high mountains

above the clouds’ whiU°'' ^ Hecla is seen rising

■°ot of w£, r, ®

At the distance of -- - tushes forth

^^"^ered with ice,

ibe foot of whfr’h'w'nf. a ridge of rocks, al

At the distance of i !, a*' '■° '■“ne tushes forth,

beard, like Uiat of‘a ‘"“'‘"g noise is

rocks, each eiectinn* Precipitated from stupendous

raneous detonation? -p|"S ‘‘'^''“iipunied by violent subter- the water rushes Ins ff ^b'ptli ot the opLiiing from which ^apse before a ston^'^u ascertained, but some seconds Danish traveller O? 'brown m reaches the surlhco. I'he bigh as sixty asserts, tliat the water rises ;is

b‘ghestjetatnot:?T"' "''bbe Van Troil estim.ntes the

however, th.at the iet? sixty teet : the latter allows, >n bad weatlier. T|,„ be more elevated, partiailarly evinced by its not explosive power is

sulking, but even fo,w P^^ubug s^nes thrown in from Jogedierwith Uie waw^ tbera up to a veiy great height, tliousand pieces Thl r, spbtiuig the pebbles into a »'vp hundred and tw?l by Van Troil to be

^"it. The ed Js nf b'ulirenlieit, the boiling

‘^I’srse stalactitic rioA jP'Pe or basin are covered by a ■petrifying qualitv ^ ^mi "'uter has been found to have ‘•meter nineteen frof b® ”Pcning is perfectly circular, in Ibe ground, a basin 'b'^ surface of

is nine feet ^bovl^n"'"® ‘bameter, the edge of

^ spouting springs.

28 mountains.

Horrelxnv observes, that if you fill a botile at one of them, the water it coiihfuis will boil up two or three limes, at the same time with the watt>r in the well. ^ The inhabitant's boil their meat in it, by putting the meat in a vessel of coin water, which they place in the hot spring.

Sir G. S. Mackenzie, whose recent travels in Iceland we have already cited, visited the Geysers at a season favour- able to his observations, the latter end of July. He found die cultivation of the suiTountling territory much higher than might have been inferred from the idea general!? entertained of the barren and unproductive stale ot Iceland. All the flat ground in that iiuarter of the island wav .swampy, but not so much so as T impede the progress ot the party, who, having passed several hot springs to the eastward' of Skalholt, and others rising among the loW hills ther had left to the right, in proceeding to the gie;k Geyser,' came to a farm-house, situated oii a rising grouiyi in the midst of the hogs. Here the people were bu.sil? employed in making hay, a scene which afforded a pleasing change from the dreaiy solitude they had quitted : liie whole of this extensive district, wlilch abounds in grass, w'otild, if drained, our traveller observes, prove a very rich pasture country. Fartlier on they came to several cottages at tlie foot of the mountain, round which they tunied, and came in sight of the hill, having the Geysers at one of its sides. This hill, in height not more than three htuidred feeri IS separated from tlie iiiouinaln, towards the west, by a nai' row slip of flat boggy ground, connected with that which extends over the wh'ole valley. Having crossed this bog- luid a small river which ran tlirough it, the party came to * farm-honse at the east-end of llie'hill, luid arrived _at a spa^ where the most wondertul and awful eftecls of subtef' raiieoas heat arc exhibited.

Oil the east-side of the hill there are several banks o* clay, from some of which steam rises in clitl'erent places > and in others there are cavities, in which water boils brisklV' Jn a lew of these cavities, the water, being mixed -wid’ clay, is thick, and varies in colour ; but is dfiefly red ai'd grey*. Ik'low tliese banks iliero is a gentle and unifon” sl()i>e, composed of matter which, at .some distant peri(>'' has been deposited by springs which no longer exist. '1 strata or beds tltus formed, seemed to have been brok'-'’

mountains. 29

(Sevlpr particular!)'- near the great

niimpp uhin a space not exceeding a quarter of a mile, ■which the old incrustations, from of force™ ' water and steam issue, with different degrees Gev=nr o fc • tortkerii extremity is situated the great circuni'fMn distinguishahle from the others by every

it anncarcri^'tt™™’*^'^^^'^ approaching this spot,

rou<rii-ionV ^ oiount had been formed of iiTegular, the'orio-in nf° upon the ancient regailar strata,

latter 1?k c- '' a '1 “‘uiilar. The slope of the

side • and th^ mount to spread more on the east- tmced\iU they'Sdf^w?^ ^vater may be

height of the

mp, . • , — The perpendicular

the hin-hest mrt n/Il ^ ’"Ut seven feet, measured from these le Ker ‘lepositions. Fro.n

<listin>niishcrl ' n f. tpowng the mount may be readily hnkSie tvhere a disruption ha:^

was found to “ *®/°P °t this mount is a basin, which

b anolTer“‘^

tile party reiclwf°li° u’clock in llie afternoon, when hot water riiH c 1’°^’ hasin fiiU of

satisfied theii- cr' c was running over. Having

examine some other proceeded to

U’S- Above the r xvhcuce tliey saw w.atcr ascend-

vamc to a lai-c-e irr?^? .^'^1'^':''’ ^ ®hort distance, they

the writer observe ?P®uhtg, the beautic.s of which, waten- with which i^ ''i '^‘^'1' pos^'hle to describe. ■ The

Pvi-fectly still -lithp,, T“° “ was as clear as cr)'stal, and ‘t 'hey saw wifim "t the boiling point. Through

and cavities, to a <r‘-f ^utuung a variety of figures

and dark abvss'^^^ uopth,_aud cairying the eye into a tonued a dome of ’ ° the crust supporting them

stance which tlw *"'1*' '‘’.constderable thickness j a circum- utuch to the eii;»cr'^^ \ of itself agreeable, contributed

hundred yards fro- tent at the distance of about one

that a rceular . ,t^oyser, and so arranged matters f?.s

l-S.Mfckenrifmr'p ' ‘^"ring the night. Sir

companions lav rlnv, * *^'’1 *^"'1011 at eleven o’clock, and his twelve he 1 ', ^ “ sleep. About ten minutes before

3 ei raucous discharges, and waked hi»

30 MOUNTAINS,

friends. The water in the basin was greatly agitated, and flowed over, but there was not any jet. The same occurred at half past two. At five minutes past four on Saturday morning, an alarm was given by one of the company. A* •our traveller lay next the door of the tent, he instantly drew aside the canvas, wlien, at a distance of little moro than fifty yards, a most extraordinary and magnificent ap- pearance presented itself. From a place tliey had not before noticed, they saw water tlirovvn up, and steam issuing with a tremendous noise. There was little wtiter ; but the force with which the steam escaped, produced a white column of spray and vapour, at least sixlv feet high. They enjoyed this astonishing and beautiful sight until seven o’clock, when it gradually disappeared.

The remaining part of the morning was occupied in ■examiiftng the environs of the Geysers ; tuid at every step they received some new gratification. Following the chan- nel which had been formed by the water escaping from the great basin during the eruptions, tliey found several beau- tiful and delicate petrifactions. The leaves of birch and willow were .seen converted into white stone, and in tli« most perfect state of pre.servation, every minute fibre being entire. Grass and rushes were in die same state, and .also masses of peat. Several of these rai'e and elegant sjxi- cimens were brought safely to Great Britain. On die out- side of the mount of the Geyser, the depositions, owing to die splashing of the water, are rough, and have been justly compared to the heads of cauliflowers. They are ot a yellowish brown colour, and .are arranged round the mount> ■somewhat like a circular flight of steps. Tlie inside ot tlio basin is comparatively smooth ; and the matter forming !'• is more compact and dense dian the exterior crust ; wheo polished, it is not devoid of beauty, being of a grey colmiff mottled with black and white spots and streaks. Th*-’ white incrustation formed by the water of the beautifm ciivitv before described, had taken a very curious tbrm at tlaJ water’s edge, wry much resembling the capital of Gothic column.

mountains.

31

the sulphur mountain. '

mountain, distant al)ont three miles from the frorn tl^/ Pi'®''"'*’' Pl’enomcnon verr ditlhront.

B^rV^Mn' « CAUimKON OK

this sinmilar^ • ®^h-act the following particulars of

Itself, immediately bene'‘4'ifwf^l'’''^

" profusion of va„„ \ . a deep hollow, whence

boiling and snlashino- .. ' ‘‘ confused noise of

narrow creviLs in ^'^""Tanied by steam escaping from tt-s the whS^o? the'“"''- as well

sulphur and clav o “"tiiitain opposite, covered with suft Rud Kt/-nmT’ ''®'y Irazardous to walk over a

r^apour concr-^i-' ®tirtace of such a descri|Hton. The much uneasin * 'f party from each other occasioned °t' sulphur some hazard of die emst

They w -?^i sinking beneath their

auakled a< ; 'mis several times in danger of being bright "who m ^’■"'PP'^ned to one of the pai-tv, Mr. hot clay. Vh^ rt one of his legs into the

the depth of af” thermometer was immersed in it, to degrees of tlie ,'”''y..*'’'^hes, it generally rose to within a tew Bvokiiug every 1'^! by stepping cautiously, and

«wn liscertaiif- 1 'i ^ issued, they

hu-lune, howev ''“''“re. Their good

:uiv iiersoii to ^ George oliservds, ought not to tempt

provided with . ‘“'“r wonderful place, without being hatiks niav be t hoards, with which every part of the of the liollo,„ ‘"'®'^cd in perfect safety. At the button, mud, which described, they found the cauldron of

"Pproached wiiT'^*^ utmost vehemence. They

'hem ill viecvi,, '*** ^ ww yards of it, the wind favouring mud Was in conct^'f*^T“'' 'his singular scene. The "“'ght of six or "|‘'ation,_ and often tlirown up to the ^"ce filled ■. Near this spot was an irregulai-

ater, boiling briskly. At the foot of the

A2 MOUNTAIN’S.

h!ll, in a liollow formed Iry a bank of clay and sulidiUf’ steam rushed with gio.-it force and noise from among lb® loose fragments of rock.

In ascending the mountain^ our travellers met with 9 spring of cold water, which was little to he expected i® such a place. At a greater elevation, they catne to a ridg®t composed entirely of sulphur and clay, joining two suin' niits of the mounlaiu. The smooth crust of sulphur waj beautifully ciystalli'/.cd ; and beneath it was a (juantitv loose granular sulphur, which appeared to be collecting 'ai:'^ crystallizing, as it v.-as .sublimed along with the steam. 0“ removing the sulphureous emst, steam issued, and atmoyci^- the party so mucli, that tliey could not exammo this plac® to any depth.

Beneath the ridge, on tlie farther side of this groat Ikk' of sulphur, an abundance of vapour escaped wiih a loui^ noise. Having crossed to the side of the mountain opposltCi tliey walked to what is called the principal spring-. Thi’ was a task of much apparent danger, a.s the side of lb.® mountain, to the extetU of about half a mile, was coveroii with loose clay, into winch the feet of our travellers siinb at every steji. In many places there was a tliin crush beneath which the cla.y was wet, and extremely hot. Good fortune attended iluaii ; ai’d, without any serious iacou' venienoe, the}' roaclnai iho object they ha.d in view. A dense cphimn of sk-aiTi, mixed with a small portion oi water, forced ils \vr:y impetuously through a crevice in th® rock, at the head of;-; narrow vnllc}', or break in the rncaW' tain. The violence with which it rushed out was so greah that (lie noise, iJms occasioned, might often be heard at tb® di-slaiice of seveial miles. During uiglit, while the par*.'’ Liy in their ter.t at Krisuvik, they more than once listened to it with mingled awe and astonishment. Behind lb® coiiimn ot vajiour was a dark-coloured rock, which aJsk’d to Ih.e sublimity of the elfect.

“■ It is quite beyond my power,” observes Sir Georg® Ivhii'ketizie, “ to Oder such a description of this extraorcii' nary pk'.ce, as would convey adequate ideas of its tvonders, of its terrors. The sensations of a person, even of hrmuerve^' .Kianding on a support which feebly sustains him, over r.iw-s where, literally, fire and brimstone arc in drendlbl and incessant action ; having before his eyes trcmendoi'-’

n f £ Fountains. 33

vapoui-s • 'ms 3 enveloped in thick

mooting,

SWITZERLAND, WITH THE GLACIERS.

Of Aipta iarii p™“i

^ Thomson.

bdong^t^th™ account of its white aspect,

gigantic, and TuL “I

rising no less than 15 8^9 f mounUin in Europe

miles, above die level onh ’ more than three

I-ake of Geneva in its vir' ® feet above the

Wonderful collectiom „(■ encompassed by those

two of the prlS^Uf caUed - Glaciers,”

Triolet. 11, e j.];” '• Inch, are called Mont Dolent and

^fomecLiry, \ul Mont Blanc, named the

i'rom that point it , a compressed hemisphere,

^wave surface of simJ^ S‘‘‘‘mudl7, and presents a kind of RTaitiid of ice. Jt •] ' midst of which is a small

wmch is named the ’ second hemisphere,

0 another concave surf ^ ; and thence descends

other names besm‘''’ 1’°''^^’ which, ioc^^ ” -Dome tie Gom '*■ the Savoyards, is imenordome. ^ ' =t«d may be regarded as the

^^wit Blanc was nndp\ to reach the summit of

" Pbysiciau of ChaZn, ’ ^86, by Doctor Paccaid,

guide, named Balm’ ^ f make the attempt

discovered the onl searching for crystals,

°tis an undertakiuiT J P't^^'^‘t;able route by which so ar- ^upied fifteen horn ascent

^■msuinces of the >'reatest“rffl descent five, under cir- =md Uiat of his“Iutl H flte Doc

O e, Balnra, being so affected by th« V-/ 3

34 MOIINTAINF.

snow and wind, as to render tliem almost blind, at the srtme time that tlie face of each was excoriated, and tlie lips exceedingly swelled.

On the first of August of the following year, 1/87, celebrated and indefatigable naturalist, M. de Saussure, set cut on his successful expedition, accompanied by a senant and eighteen guides, wlio earned a tent and mattresses, together with the necessary accommodations and various instruments of experimental philosophy. 'I he first night tney passed tinder the tent, on the summit of the mountain of La Cote, 4986 feet above “ the Priory,” a large village in the vale of Chamonni, the journey thither being exempt from trouiile or danger, as the ascent is always over turf. Of on the sv.did rock ; but above this place it i.s wholly over K-e 01 snows.

Piarly next morning they traversed the glacier of C6te, to gain the foot of a small chain of rocks, inclo.sed ill the snows of Mont Blanc. The glacier is both difficult :uid dangerous, being intersected by wide, deep, irregular ehasms, which freijuently can be passed only by ihme bridges of snow', w'liich are su.spended over tlie abyss. After reaching the ridge of rocks, the ti'act winds along a hollow', or valley, filled with snow, which extends north and south to the foot of the highest summit, and is divided at interv’.als by enormous crevices. These shew the snow' to he disposed hi liorizoutal beds, each of which answ'ers to a year, and, notwithslauding the width of the fissures, the depth can in no part he measured. At four in the afternoon, tJie party readied the second of the three great platforms of snoW 'jicy liad to traverse, and here they eiicanii>ed at the height ol 9312 feet above the Priory, or l2,/6'8 feet, nearly two miles and a half, above the level of the sea.

Prom die centre of diis platibrm, enclosed betw'een tlic f.irtlicst summit of Mont Blanc on the soudi, its high step6> or terrace.s, on the east, and the Dome de Goute on tli« west, iiotliing but snow appears. It is quite pure, of * da/./.liiig whiteness, and on the high .summits presents # singular contrast w'ith the sky, which, in these elevated regions, is almost black. Here no living being is to l>« seen ; no appearance of vegetation ; it is the abode of cold and kilcnce. “ When,” observes M. de Saussure, “ I represent to myself Dr. Paccaid and James Balma fir»‘

Mont Blanc.

. mouktains. 85

giving, on the decline of day, in. these deserts, without ^ without assistance, and even without the certainty ren 1*''® w' the places which tliey proposed to

acn, and still pursuing their career with unshaken intre- ’ 5' > ‘t seems impossible to admire too much their strength of mind and tlieir coursge.”

, company departed, at seven the next morning, to ^ tliird and last platform, the slope of which is - cine y steep, being in some places tliirty-nine degrees, rt terminates m .precipices on all sides ; and the surface of snow was so hard, that tliose who went foremost were slon?*^ e ^"n feet witJi hatchets. The last

'hiili a ^ pie.->ents no danger; but the air possesses so h;mst-il rarity, that the strength is speedily ex-

neces^ir "" approaching the summit it was found

^enth ^ P^ces to take

x^A^\ • they reached the top of the mountain,

j continued tour hours and a half, during which • de Saussure enjoyed, with rapture and astonish- and soKK extensive as well as the most rugged have ren a" niade those observations which

A lio-i ^ expedition important to philosophy, air conr-i ^rispended in the lower regions of tlie

obiects sight tlie lowest and most remote

•fte whole France and lAimbardy ; but

lieared assemblage of high summits ap-

niornino- reachca P^*'ty, and the next

As they had taken without the smallest accident.

tFcir faces were Pyecauiiou to wear veils of crape,

1’lie cold was not ‘icr t^'eir sight debilitated,

was de.scribeii bv Dr piercing as it

the hygrometer on expenments made with

teas found to • summit ct the mountain, tlie air that of ® portion only of tlie humidity

Saussure imont'^'* i diyness of the airM.de

panions exupr’*^^ j ^^rirst which he and his com-

^verSdZ.T"^*^- balls of tlie electrometer

ft required ^ aod die electricity was positive.

Geneva fiftee ^ ■ *'*'■ to make water boil, wliile at "hirteen at th*' ®i’^teen minutes sufficed, and twelve or e sea side. Not any of the party discovered

36 MOUNTAINS.

tlie smallest difTereiice in the taste or smell of bread, wine* meat, I'mits, or liquors, as some travellers have pretended is the case at great heights ; but sounds were of course much weakened, fioni the want of objec's of reflection. Of ali the organs, tliat of rospiration was the most afl'ecled, fh<? pulse of one of the guides beating ninety-eight times in t> minute, that of iJie servant one hundred and twelve, and tlitit of M. de S:iussure one h\indred and one ; wliile Chamouni the pulsations respeelively were forty-nine, sixty, aud seventy-two. A.fewdays afterwards, hlr. hleaufoy, aa English gentleman, succeeded in a similar attempt, alilumgb it -A tis attended with greater dllflculty, arising Iroai euhirge- ujents in llte chasms in tlic ice.

THE GLACIERS, OR ICE .MASSF.S.-

Tuf. three great Ghaders, or Ice mountains, vvhieii descend_ from the flanks of Mout Blanc, add theii ice to that of the Miage, and ju'esent a majestic spectacle, amid llw astoiiishing succession of icy summits, of deep vallks, at A <A wide ciu'.sins, whidi have become ehanucls for the imiumerable torn.'iils and cataracts with which tliese mouii- taliis abound, I'hc view which the Glacier of 'i'alalrv aflords from its cetttre, looking to\v;inis the north, is as extraordinary as beautiful. It rises gradually to the b.ase o.’ a semicircular girdle, formed of peaks of granite of a great lu'ight, and lerniinaling ia sharp sunauil.s, extremely varied in their forms ; while the iiilervals between these jrcaks are fllled up 1)1' ice, which falls into this m.ass, and this ma>s of ice is crowned by m.asses of snow, rising in i'esluoH’ Ixtween the black and vertical tables of granite, the sleep- nests of wiiich docs not allow Uiem to remain. A ridge ot •shatter', d wrecks divides this glacier lengthwise', and lurn'> its most ilevated ])art, being 8538 feet, upward.? of a milo till'd a half, aliove tlie level of the sea. 'ibis prospect ho» liothuig hi common with what is seen ia other jiarts of tlw world, d'he immense masses of ice, surrounded and .sur- mounted by iiyrtmiidal roclcs, still more enormous in mag- uitude; the contrast between the vrhiteness of tlie saov.s and the obscure colours of the stones, moistened by ihit water which trickles down their sides ; the purity of the air; the dazaling light of the siui, whidi gives to theirf

V ^'"UNTAINS. J7

silence tl'e majestic ami awful

‘s only P'l ' ‘'St solitudes — a silence which

tnass of crranii\^ by the noise of some great

"tountaiu- a,,d’ tumbling from tiro top of the

themstlve’s on whirl elevated rocks

°i'e to be s-'en r , ’ ■ animals, shrubs, no.r verdure,

coimtiw and rirlw!'’"!^''^- recollection of the fertile small a distance which the adjacent vallies at s6

Sion of adiniraiio^rn?'T \ produce a mixed impres-

to l>elie%-e that hr i "'hich tempts the spectator

"orld forgotten bv rhr^* suddenly transported into a The Jaciei m . P"5 "f Nature,

another ioc-mountnli!'” Jr with die vTecks of

ried many huts, fl^ks^'- nd VP® ^^o, and-bu-

> nocks, and slrepherds beneath its rains.

FltO.M TKE EUET.

'he l>ecul'ari?brip°™ Mont Blanc and of the Alps,

onght to be noticed ^ v summit of the Buet

‘'n'pear so vast Bounir, did prospect

";mdingibraspace<?f ^^hone is seen,

plains of die Valai’ . leagues through the rich

'fountains cover with’ -® 'ho river which the

®hyrr, and those which m’ hko threads of

gokl. Beyond die rivo,- . j ■ illumines like direads of '

the r '"oumaiirof > 'ho ' le'v extends

he Gnsons, all cove,vd °.p}''h'''orland, bt. Gothard, and neignts sink suddenlv ti" *®® ’ "'hUo, on the east, the

'he globe, to level’ nip “h the loftiest elevations

like a spot at one t !'? 7"^hed by the sea. Geneva a sinuous band di ‘'ho, and the lake itself.

pfonditarediscovL ’he lields which it waters,

pnd Burgundy, thg plnh's of Fniuche Comi6

;*npei'ceptihle gradation P ^''h'®h diminish by almost ''>* extent of sicUt to P®'® 'he eye has neither power

P^ciited to its view 3ce the whole of the objects

wiilch descend ^ the fearful aspect of tlie pre- 'Veen the country dec '"^hlo, '""hat a contra.st be-

S''y> and the sublime '"hh all that is fmiling and

-firing of tfe Alps, their ^omj

o, above all, die prodigious height

38 MOUNTAIN§.

■of Mont BlanCj that enormous colossus of snow ani ice, wliich parts tlie clouds, and j)ierces to the very heavens ! Below this mountaiu, which bids detiance to time, and whose eternal ice disregards tire dissolving power of llie sun, a band of pyramidal rocks appears, the intervals be- tween them being so many vallies of ice, the immensity of which appals the imagination. Their deep chasms may be distinguished, and tlie noise of tire frequent avalanche* (falls of immense masses of snow,) presents to the mind the gloomy ideas of horror, devastation, and ruin. Farther on, otlier summits of ice prolong this majestic picture- Among diese are the high mountains of the St. Bernard, and those which border on the Boromean islands.

Perhaps there is not in our Itemisphere a tlieatre more uistructive, or more adapted for reflection, tlian tlie summit of this mountain. Where beside can be seen sucli variety and contrast of forms ; such results of the efforts of time ; such effects of all tlie climates, and of all tlie seasons ? At one glance may lie embraced frosts equally intense with those of Lapland, and the rich and delightful frontiers of Italy; eternal ice, and waving han’csts ; all the chilling horrors of winter, and the luxuriant vegetation of summer ; eighty leagues of fertile plains, covered with towns, with vineyards, with fields and herds, and, adjoining to these, a depth of twenty thousand feet of everlasting ice.

MONTSERRAT.

Here, 'midst tlie clmii;;efiil scenery, over neiv,

I'aiicy it tliiiiisiind woikI’ious I'onns descries,

^Tore wildly great tlian ever pencil drew ;

Koeks, torrents, gulfs, and sliapes of giant size.

Anti glittering clilFs on elifls, and fiery raiiipart.s rise.

HeA'ITIE.

This Spanish mountain, which has been so long cele- brated on account of the singularity of its shape, but ediiefly for its convent and its numerous hermitages, is nin® leagues north-west of Barcelona, in the province of Cata- lixiia. It is in height only 3300 feet above the level of flj® »e:i, but it commands an enchanting prospect of the fin® jrlain of Barcelona, extending to tlte sea, as well as cf ll>® islands of Majorca and Minorca, distant 150 miles.

mouktains. *9

»UP!T Bj^rcelona tins mountain presents a bold and aim laf west, towards Vacarisas, it is

roatl P*^'"P®r'dicular, notwithstanding which, a carriage- slielip!^a convent, which is placed in a

of tZ„ tlie rocks, at about half the height

the rorW^°'^”^™‘ Llobregat roars at the bottom ; and water -if perpendicular waUs from the edge of tha two crnurn above the convent, the mountain divides into hires • uri a which form the mort prominent fea-

into uilla/' pinnacles, blanched and bare

picturesque effect si>wn1nr crl

toitages, which at

*nountain, some ~ aitfereiu poims or uvi

cones, to \vhich tl ^ r very pinnacles of the

in cavities hewn

accessible nnrt nf *i ^ dottiest pyramids. Tlie higliest St. Maddelem is above the hermitage of

L_ descent vt/l-iit'K K<^twpf^n twn

two rm«r« the convent, the mountain divides

hires • wtia which form the mort prominent

into uillar- pinnacles, blanched and bare, and split

picturesque effect h *‘“pes, give a most

toitactes whir-v. biere are seen fourteen or liftcen lier- toountain scattered over different points of tlie

. ’ “ume ot tliem m, tl,„ the

i placed

„qrr 1. I rj Tlie highest

St. Maddel'eua” tl! nbove hermitage of

cones, bv a fl;,rL ncscent from which is between two into a valley wl ' K C‘^^*‘--d Jacob's Ladder, leading

tain. The con tl-e summit of the moun-

tl'e souUiern grotesque shapes,

‘t:semblanrp t ceing named “ the Organ.” from its At tJ,r “• cf pipes- '

ancf valley, which is a perfect shrub- •lerome, the hiO^' eniinence, stands the hermitage of St. tile loftiest remote of all ; and near it is

little chapel, de^'' whole mountain, on which is a

pinnacle the Virgin. From this elevated

Altliou^h and splendid,

t^iese shattered ® wreaked all their fury oti

^,®‘' gifts; thesnaePsL^!^. "*^"'® *^®®.'l sparing ill

close Woods wfoi ^^ween the rocks being lilled up with plants, serve to ad ' ^ numerous evergreens, and otlxw finable denne't ^ - various chasms, rendering tiiem indeed, are the *^^'® vegetable kingdom. Few,

fccndh;;\r,,!.':°'^'-®®.n* of Europe which may not be Swinburne * th "" ’i'® mountain was visited by Mr. liundred ^®®‘'^ of tlie convent had a li.st of

trees whinV."i * '“'^y'^cven species of plants, and forty Venerable dHp M'P spontaneously, and grace this hoary *'*ountain thJ. being two springs only on the

> Ulcie IS a cr»ar/>W»r ,.t.' ...... , * * *

— IWU VJIU^ uu LilC

® IS a scarcity of water, which is chiedy

40 MOUVTAIKS.

collected in cisterns ; an inconvenience^ however, which i^_ in a great measure counterbalanced by the absence oi wolves, bears, and other wiki beasts.

Captain Carlton, an Englishman, who visited Montserrat some years ago, ascended to the loftiest hermitage, tliat ot St. Jerome, by the means of spiral steps hewn nut in tlu> rock, on account of the steep acclivity. This, he oliseives, could not, in his time, be well accomplished by a stranger, without following the footsteps of an old ass, who carried from the convent a daily supply ot food to the hermits- This animal having his two panniers stored with tlie prO' visions divided into portions, climbed willtout a guide, and having stopped at each of the cells, where the hermit took the portion allotted to him, returned back to the convent. He found that one of these hermits, to beguile tlic weari' someness of his solitude, had contrived so effectually to taniiJ the birds which frequented the groves surrouuduig his her- mi-tage, that he could draw them together v\'ilh a whistle, w’hcn they perched on his head, bre.ist, and shouHers, taking the food from his moutli.

The Convent is situated on tlie eastern side of the moun' tain, which seems to have betin split by vast torrents ot water, or by some violent convulsion o! nature; in t,t>’ way a platform has been formed in the ck-tt, sulficientlf ample for the purpose of its construction. It is one of tla? forty-five religious houses of the Spanish congregaiioti u the order of S.r. Benedict. Tlic monks are bound to suppl/ food and lodging for three days to all pilgrims who coni'' up to pay th(Mr homage to the Virgin ; beside which, the) entertain the hermits on Sundays, i'he latter, wlio nwke ■' vow never to quit the mountain, ttikc ilicir stations by seiii' ority, the junior hermit being placed at the grc.atcst dls' tance from the convent, and descenduig jnogves'sively as th- vacancies happen. They arc not akogether iille, takinS pains to rival each other in making b.isket-woi ks and olli<-’t fanciful f productions, which they display with great alb*' bility to theiii visitors. They assemble every morning hear mass and perform divine service, in the parish-chuftb of St. Cecilia, wiiich lies considerably ab;;ve the convent ' and twice j week they confess and communicate. Th') wear their beards long, and are clad in brown. , ,

The church of St. Cecilia is a gloomy eJiftce, the gil J

of • 1 • mountains. 41

M’-vor of eighty-five

the cornice *of tl o and sizes, .suspended round

oil ful tor the supply ,of these

-tltoir is dec^^^ bequeathed by devotees, The

representing the most curiously wrought,

Christ. “ ^ prominent pas.sages in the hfo of

T..r isi

^"P- Island ot Ten-'i-IiT-;. i

from the inhabitants of tl,» o'? t'cceivcd its present name t'nguage tener slmdfes FaLa, in whose

'^ea ih, and fertility it exceeds -n'ti '' In extent, I^conttnuc-s to rise <m alUi t . c "^‘‘er Canary islands. •iVd^ celebrated Pc-',k "iitil it ter-

J-ed lather m tlie soutliern is, however, sitn-

island The ascent on the ‘^""'rc of tiro

be odier parts, there beinev^^ ' " than at

biee leagues in breadth hn shore about

t*nntams, or rather cliffs fr*c sides by high

^npng garden all the wav w 1 1 ^ rises like a

a 1 ‘FbF or valires^' ti co.tsiderable iiiter-

3 '^ ar, extending it£eh7n J y, island is tri-

hich IS about eightv te ^ ’^be ncartist of

ln^“; it is divllp!t‘ coast of Africa,

formi^^'^^? compared to .,^1' “dge ot raomitains, which ‘ rV:^ ng thespirSo ttc° ^ ^oof of a dituxdi, the Peak

fef n triea.sm-emen; 'Fci'erifto, according to tlie

sea \ Fitfo miles and n, b/ Cordiery is I2,l6(> or tl/'' ' ascent, the first 7 *c'‘c *0 level of tii*

cm/r f °’“tiiuain Sm Verde,

Bevri''F P’'c®ctits\ lev( 1 " which it is

“cyond this, is the Mo, considerable extent.

itel" Sr/"' arc said to

an P Pte now become p ‘''buudance ; but its

ipearance very difK ,p ► 7°“^ ft^d its whole ^cribedabove^ iJ/i n ‘Fe eminence

[^hes a plain, onWh Ibis summit, the traveller

Sh de tSo f Festowed the

stimds. It i, , SO, and upon which the Peak iu mountainous platform, rising more

42 MO0NTAIKJ.

tlian seven thousand feet, neiu-ly a mile and a half, above tiie level of the sea ; and here the currents of lava, hitherto concealed by the vegetation, begin to appear in all tlieif aridity and confusion, a few lowly shrubs and creeiiing plants alone diversifying the surface of a desert, tlie nutijt arid and rugged that cau be imagined.

A small sandy platform of pumice stones, bordered Ify two enormous cun'eiits of vitreous lava, and blocks of tlW same nature, ranged in a semicircle, forms what is calleJ the Station of the English, on 'account of tlie Peak having been so often visited by British travellers. This platform g / SO (bet, upwards of a mile and tliree quarters, above tl>v level of the sea ; and beyond it the acclivity is very steep> great masses of scoriae, extremely rough and sharp, cover' ing the currents of lava. Towards the summit, uothing Init pumice stone is to be seen. In fact, die Peak can onfy be ascended on die east and south-east sides. As it I’ impossible to get round die crater, die traveller's progress i» aiTcsted at dre spot at which he reaches it. Here the t«st orders of volcanic substances are to be seen, die modertt lavas being dirown up amid the ruins of ejecdoi* much more ancient, the immense masses of which constitute th® platform on which the Peak is placed. The shattered side* jiresent a series of thick beds, almost all plunging toward* die sea, composed alternately of ashes, volcanic sand> pumice stones, lavas, either compact or porous, and scorit®' An incalculable number of currents, comparatively rece«'> ■which have descended from the Peak, oi' have issued front its flanks, form irregular forrows, which run along the inor® ancient masses, and lose diemselves in the sea to die and north. Among diese cuixents more than eighty ciatei* are scattered, and augment with their ruins die conti»it)P which prevails throughout.

The crater can alone be reached by descending do"'*' tlnee chasms. Its sides are absolutely precipitous widiji't and are most elevated towards the north. Its form is ell'PJ deal ; its circumference about one thousand two hundre® feet ; and its depdi, according to Cordier, one hundred an® ten feet. Humboldt, however, estimates it at not nior® than fi-om forty to sixty feet The sides are, agreeably the former of these observers, formed of an earth of suo'^'f whiteness, resuldng from the decomposition of the black®**

an<^ j Mountains. is

=’“‘1 tlj lowest ^‘‘Phyritic lava. All the rest is .solid,

•ninlng crystals of ‘''''® co'^ered with

*’gure, some of which are -i '"honiboidal and octoedral

P«-l«ps, the finest .spec ntLns'o^ ^“

known. Vapours Issue a ® sulphur yet

’’locks, and ftoman^nf «™o«E fiese

'■or/ intense heat fissures which preserve a

»^nd water, perfectly iiXi^^’T T'f ^’pfiur, opal, in thin ulaLc • '^’’o incrustations of

Humboldt regards tfii

■TO''

«'4? SfTSt' ‘SriL” 'i,S

spint being more or less ^ they a.scnbe to the oidialed trom tlie crater 00^*^ *” sulphureous fuiiK-s rjte observers, declare how^vf =>ocu- tl e r‘‘'‘«th of liquids aunearfl’ "®'”’orthe smell nor e leiKt degree impaired^ f elevation, to be in spirit of uikdi, etl>er

■inf’ * cold’is^verv ‘’’eu" usual pungency. They defTrim' ’’‘''’■■oous vapoJ.?^°”'‘'^'® ' fi>“t neither tl»

do. breatlung difficult. «rity of the air, rei>-

extract tlie foll/N •

unnoldt's account of hrs'ws;t''fT®‘‘"S particulars from i 'awards three in ffi' ” ’? ^eneriffe.

of aip'*in ’'''® began ^our'r^’ sorabrous liglit

wh if 1 scidef Ae ‘ ’be sruumit

sh' «■' Aurvsr a ^,12

ssF" *2,“ ,,r E

Alte V'^ "fountains than thn ’’®tter practised in

^owT'^'t’-'^’d the Neverii? '«^oh

P^i^hegms; a term by wldol T- P°‘"’

oy- which IS designated here, as

44

MOUNTAINS.

■'A'c'U as in Mexico, Pern, and t-ver v other cniintry subje^^J to volcanoes, a ground destituie of vegvlable mould, aii'* covered with fragments of lavas.

“ We observed, dm'lng the twilight, a phenoiiienoi' which is not unusual on high mountains, but which d'® position of die volcano we were .scaling, rendered ver,^ striking. A layer of wlfite and fieecy clouds conceaU’” from us the sight of the ocean, an.d tiic lower region of tb® island, d his layer did not appear above one thousand hundred yards high ; the cloiid.s were so uiiil'ormly .spreadj and kept so perfect a level, ll)at they wore the appearnnc® of a vast plain covered with .viow. The colossal j)yranii“ of the Peak, die volcanic .summits of .I.anzerota, of Foria' veutura, and the i.sle of Palma, were like rocks amidst tliif

vast sea of vapours, and their black tints were hi line coi’" tost widi the whiteness of the clouds.”

Jly an astronomical obsei'vation, made at tiie above elev;’.' tion at sun-rise, it was ascertained that: the true horizoin that is, a part of the sea, was distant one hundred and tliii'T nfiles. Our traveller proceeds thus :

We had yet to scale the steepest part of the mountaiU’ the Piton, which forms tlie sumrrtit. ' The slojie of small cone, covered with.volcanic aulies, and ftagments pumice stone, is so steep, diat it would have been almo^'" impossible to reach the top, had we not ascended by old current of lava, the wrecks of which have resisted di® ravages of time. These wrecks form a wall of scorioi^^ rocks, which stretches itself into the midst of the loos® ashes. We ascended tlie Piton by giusping tliese hah decomposed scoria;, the sharp edges of which remain®* often in our hands. We employed nearly half an hour scale a hill, the perpendicular height of which does U®^ exceed five hundred feet.

“ When we gained the summit of the Piton, we \vef® surprised to find scarcely room enough to seat oui'selves coP" veniently. The west wind blew with such violence tb®J we could scarcely stand. It was eight in the morning, ao® we were frozen with the cold, though the th^moraet®' kept a lltde above the freezing point.

“ The wall, which siwrounds die crater like a parapet, so high, that it would be impossible to reach the CaJder®' ir on tne eastern side diere were not a breach, wliich seeH**

to 1 . ^JOUNTAINS. 45

‘lescendecl'tlirowlftM^ ^ flowing of very old lava. Wo- funnel, the ficmt-p nf*” loward.s the bottom of the

breadth of tl e^nou^, ^ ^ The greatest

leeMhe smallest two

of broklflarrfronfthe^" crater on a train

Tlte heat hi endosure.

gave vent to aqueons vnn?'' ^ m n few crevices, which noise. Soine of these f ' ^ ^ peculiar buzzing

side of the enclosum^ oiml! ' ‘"‘'‘i ' °n-the out-

rhat surrounds the crater ® cxteni.il brink of the parapet

wio them, and saw it rise rapidlv^to'"^'^‘^ thermometer five degrees. ^ ■‘’‘•'‘ty-eight and seventy-

I’eak, to Ivait the moment\vUp °".^bc sHnamlt of the

of the whole of the Aicht, i ™‘S'’t enjoy the view

We discovered Palma Gon? ^^rtunale Island.s.

7’- feet. The moStSs "f 7;

at sun-nse, were soon eiu-r-l ^ feee from vapours

auppositiou only of ‘bick clouds. On a

NotwSi2i4^th7l"^ ^‘inare leagues,

under the cap of^S ,7' is probable,

temn ^'Ofler hollows are found,

^emporature of tvhich i., constant” Switzerland, the

'■"iirtl™:!''!* >'»r ■■ep«»' 'tat

vrind which hlo c repose.

s(*Plr .1 , “ feenr the time nf violent

belter at tlie foot of the Ph ^'■^'^■rise, engaged us to ^'°^en, -wdiile our boots hands and faces

^bich we walked. We dese TT- by the soil on

i^nutes tlic Sugar-Loaf wh cl *P^ee of a few

this rapidity was in n scaled with so much

•n*- on the ashes '”''°huitary, for we often

ai “ita“ pfiriiL "1'' -'i™' I-' «

her majesty.” ^ ^^omain where nature toweis

from the

“** t^logical Society by th^ Transactions ot oy the Hon. Mr. Bennet.

he cold and violent

46 THE PE,Ut OF TENERIJFE.

At the distance of Uiirty-four leagues from the isiai^ Mr. Bennet had a very distinct view of the Peak, risif^ like a cone from the bed of the ocean. The rocks a'**, strata of Tenerifte, he observes, are wholly volcanic, o’*! long chain of mountains, which may be termed the centra, chain, traversing the island from tlie foot of the seed' region of the Peak, and sloping down on tlie easted' western, and northern sides, to the sea. Towards the soud' os- more properly the S.S.W. the mountaiivs are nean) perpendicular, and though broken into ridges, and occj' .fionally separated by deep ravines, that are cut transverse', as well as longitudinally, there are none of those plains, dj that gradual declination of strata, which the south-eastfd and north-western sides of the island exhibit.

Mr. Bennet a.scended the Peak in the monih of Sep tember, 1810. We give the abridged details of this dition in his own words. i

The road to the city of Orotava, is a gmdual a"^ easy slope for three or four miles, through a highly ci'dj vated country. Leaving tlie town, after a steep ascent about an liour, tlirough a deep ravine, we quitted the ci'I", vated jiart, and entered into forests of chesuuts, tlie trdp ot' which are of a large size. The form of this torcst oblong ; the soil is deep, and formed of decomposed la''*^ small ash, and pumice. I examined several channels in tl strata, or navines worn by the rains, and tliere was d appearance of any other rock. Leaving this forest, tlie 3'-’ passes over a series of green hills, which we traversed about two hours, and at last halted to water our mules a' spot where there is a small spring of bad and brack'^ water issuing from a lava rock. The ravine is ot consids able depth. I'he range of green hills extends a mil*' . two further, the soil shallowing by degrees, until at the trees and shrubs gradually dwindling in .size, the nish broom alone covers the ground. Leaving behind tills range of green hills, the track, still ascending, leads several hour.s across a steep and difficuk mass of lava broken here and there into strange and fantastic forms, into deep i-avines, and scantily covered in places by a layer of yellow pumice. As we proceeded on our the hills on our left gradiiallr rose in height till the suni^ were lost in those of the central chain j wliile, on opr I'S

THE PEAK OF TENERIFFB 4^

an elevation above the lower range several small conical hills, or '“'’^^noes, the decomposed lava on the letwM,^ craters having a strong red ochreous tint. At on all sirt" undulated plain spreads itself like a fim,

Widecl T C‘‘u This plain is

tlie revitin ■'!,+- If '^''i and south soutli-vvest, bj

raiiffe'’of ^cf , ^ north-east, by a

nianv Icnor, Perpendicular precipices and mountains, J^aldas ^ '''.circumference, called by the Spaniards Lar

•show of vegetatlmrilfl.’ T

-ind ;-L “t™-phcre: the

1-ngland iu the climate like that of

''‘lent, and solitary \V^> ” Autumn. All here was sad, tlie coast lyino- as ii II ‘I'stance the fertile plains

«Wul coi trLtHn ti "®''®""derom-teet,and affiirding a wore siirr f f of desolation with which

‘I'e bolt^a ofTe ‘>'u und had reached

nt the bottom o'f^' l^ the plain, we found onrselve.s

or current of lava ' r*' ” ’ which is a mass

“scent of about -Iii 1 ‘'‘'■‘‘‘V' ^‘‘^“'''ciis. not to say hazardous, the mules sinking kHIIIfa*“ Pf^'ce “nd ash%iving way, and hve in the aftermw step,we arrived at about

lava, which, descelltV^ r ^^^temity of the stream of region of the neaU rii?,M summit of the second

branches, the one runnin cs at the foot of the cone into two to ihe north-west. It w-° i° north-east, and the other w. lighting a fire inade 'of'Tl'^u i

broom, and stretchinir n,,-r „ r ^ branches of the Spanish rock, we ate our dimfer and lai^

J however passed th,. K ^ wirselves down to sleep, weatlier being piercinolf"I.^‘y^ “a‘ ‘t® '*'*

''‘cw all around^me f ^

“bout ten atnigk.^:rrKf'iv""‘^ \be moon rose

surticient light m -i ' though in her third quarter, gave '"'e Were surmn,* I'^'T ' waste and wilderness by which ^hich We had v If P®**^ ''b* npper regions

Iwadj, while lio - towered awfully above oar

' ‘ otv , the mountains tliat had appeared of

4S Till! 1’F.AK OF TF.SERIFFE.

such a height in the morning, and had cost us a day's ^ hour to climb, lay stretched tts plains at our feet ; from uncommon rarity ot the atmosphere, the vdiole sanity heaven appeared studded with Innumerable stars, while tP« valleys of 'Orotava were hidden from our view by a tb' veil of light fleecy clouds, that flo.vted far beneath t ^ elevated spot we had chosen for our resting-place ; solemn stillness of the night was only ' interrapted by crackilug of the fire round which we stood, and by_ w'lnstlingof the wind, which, cominginholW gusts froU* the mmuitain, resembled the roai- of distant cannon.

Between two and three in the morning we resumed, foot, our ascent of the mountain, the lower part of wliiC" wc had climbed on horseliack tlie preceding evening ; t» ascent, however, became much more rapid and <

our feet sinking deep in the ashes at every step. Fro^ the uncommon shavjincss of the acclivity, we were oblig^^ to stop often to take lircnth ; after several limits, tve at i-eached the head of the pumice hill. After resting sob^ short time here, we began to clmib the stream of by ' .slopping from mass to mass, dhe ascent is steep, ful, and hazardous ; in some places the stream of lav3 heaped up in dykes or embankments ; and we were oft obliged to clamber over them as one ascends a steep

NVe halted stweral times during the ascent, and at 1^ reached a spot called La Cueva, one of the numerous ca' chat are found on the sides of the mountain; this is t» lan--est of them, and is filled with snow and the delicious water, w'hich was just at the point of congelau^ The de.scent into it is diflicult, it being tliirty or forty deep. One of our party let himself down by a rope : ‘ could not see the c-vtent of the cave, but llie guides dared it to be three hundred feet in length, and to com^ thirty or forty feet of water in depth. The roof and si , are composed of a fine stal.actitic lava, similar to UL found on Vesuvius, and it is of the same nature as whicn flowed on tlie surface. Wo rested here about P , an hour, during which we had an opportunity of observ^ . the risiiw of the sun, and that singular and rapid chanty of niidn into day, the consequence of an almost en ^ absence of twilight. As we ascended tire norUi-e^t » »f a>e mouut.tin, this view was strikingly beautiful t

first tWp teneriffe. 49

'"'i'ich irradiv!ll*v^ ^ of red on the horizon ,

'^egreen. and'ornw-^'^^'r, ^tself, lighting up the heavens by *'•■'1 burst forth fr and brighter, till at last the

the .tunt ro^T’^"^^ gilding, as it

Ti i,dZT„lTr,;:fc «”<• .i.»eSr.i.=%.«

Canary- in a ■‘vueritre, and those of th.

jay spread out as a man country to the eastward

’ ‘ ..‘P' P''’c great Canary was easily to

rated and • ■

-l'*yau out as

oe distinguished • ana *"'T S's;-". '-.-anary was easily tc similar to that of the nd mountainous character,

naked eye. The cold became visible to the

keen and stron-^ and th» intense, the wind

After a short tiiouo-h - ,‘^®'^''^°nieter sunk to, 32 degrees.

°f .Ike second J f the summit

P'^m of white on wv"!"‘"’ « ®“alJ

■ 3',rSv™t “Of

the

Ve-

*lio”of ti» foo. rf"arc,:;r-

Peak of Teneriffe ; it"rcn generally termed

snvius, with this dhf«vnn ike present crater of

snvius, with th'h v'lr ^'^Pi'esents the p

f^ee of tliat mountaJis "com ke superficies of this armn einder or ash,

a white colour, of scoria^? Ti ^ deposit of pumice of siderable masses that wcm'^ with here and there con- volcano was in action TV P‘°kably thrown out when the eaWr'’" *^«n cm ^^kics on the kegins theonll f "'^k considerable

the steepness of the cone hJ-^’gmng part of the ascent;

rolled" d" ^®k, and lanro each step our feet

feet and ?""" 'ikove - “hisses of pumice and lava

“k legs were cut, but braised, and our

cst rid!i"^"f difficulties, and

annp-> ®®°^*-ke motmtain. This nn^ °cirselves on the high- half ^ a” • “iifi'in in superficies PP^i'™'’®*- region does nor 5*, and ,s itself a small Ser ‘kan 3*?, ^

from h r""'k°mts on which we’sat" wliich are

of doc" ""'" . ,'^kthin, the lava ;« •"’ plainly visible

the ?iiipositioii. The snrfa ™ rapid state

snot “'^‘des said it was danwr "" ’”*■ *ke feet, and

der^’-,^^ k was, some of us^sun^t °”®

jh^ k of sulphur • uunn cf knees in the hot

■ i. I»ll„„; ,ilS“',¥ ;*;» yitl. the feet

|ke sound isTinl7“ ’ “P°k striking th die' crate

the depth of tlm and Solfalcrra I

tlie crater to be, from the highest

50

THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE.

ndge to tlie bottom, about two hundred feet, formii’S ^ easy and gradual descent. _ . . _ ^

Tlie view from the summit is stupendous : we

plainly discover the whole form ot the island, and we rO ^ ■ ’■ ■■ ■' ■' or four of the islands, which, coU*'

out distinctly three m luui uic laitmus, — .

tively, are called the Canaries ; we could not, however, ^ Lancerotle or Fuerteventura, though we were told other travellers had distinguished them all.

From this spot, the central chain of mountams that ^

from south-west to north-east, is easily to be distinguia These, with the succession of fertile and woody vaU‘ commencing from San Ursula, and ending at Las Hoi ^ with the long line of precipitous lava rocks that lay on right of our ascent, and which traverse tliat part ot

island running from east to west, from tlieir point

parturc at the Canales to where they end in an - headland on the coast, witlr tlieir forests, and villages, ^ vineyards, tlie port witli tlie shipping fo tlie roads, towns of Orotava with their spires glitveruig as the n’*’ , them, afford a cheerful contrast

iK

sulphurated rock on which we sensation of extreme height was

ing sun burst upon — , - --

tlie streams of lava, the mounds of ash and pumice, nijd^

had taken our seat. L fact one of *tlie it^j

extraordinar}' I ever'fclt j and though I did not frnd pain in my chest, arising from the rarity of the atmosph' , near so acute as on the mountains of Switzerland, jj there was a keenness in the air, independent of the that created no small uneasiness in the lungs. The respj*^ tion became short and quick, and repeated h.alts found neces.sary. The idea also of extreme height j me more determinate and precise than on the mounp>JL Switzerland; and though the immediate objects ft wore not so numerous, )'Ct as the ascent is more declivity sharperj and there is here no mountain like i > Blanc towering above you, the 12,000 feet above * j of the sea appeared con.slderably more tlian a similar tion above the lake of Geneva. We rem.ained at the * mi t about three (prarters of an hour, our ascent us a labour of four hours.

cosi

ten

as we left the Estant-' t minutes before three, and reached the top of the^ ^ ((

before seven. Our thermometer, which was graduaj*^^

tJV'i'Jl t. 3 V » VI 1 • V' 7 ^ 'll 11^

the scale of Fahrenheit, was. during our ascent, as

M peak of tekeiuite. 51

morning, 74° j at six in the mornitfg 42<> ^ i at one, in the following

<he bottom nc’.i^ Past four, 32®; at

•>our and a half a*1 ^"P °“®

Eone is diffirnU f sun-use, 33''. I'hc descent down the

of w'c S f'-o™ the fall

pumi “e. Haviiw an' themselves from the beds of

sued our marcl dnf "u to the bottom, we pur-

tosay.l™"' of tl'o lava, that is The ravines -ind r. having ascended its eastern,

formidable ■ \he ‘’o tins stream of lava are deep and troublesome, often dafwerT” always painful and

selves down from rorV r ' u" P^^oes weletour- 'vliy there should be these ”o opinion

fee of this lava : i„ >rregularities in the sur-

the trough of the se- •, 1 V'^ mscmblcs what sailors tenri if the sea in a 510™/'] oompare it to nothing but sudden stationarv tl,e t.ad by some force become on a 3ga'm approached I n retaining their swell. As wa valley, \L d™th nf , n steep tf less tlian oL hundi-ed'l' cannot the lava lyinff in hr i ^ hundred and fifty feet “irailar to the masses of " "Pon the other

have tumbled down ^‘^ae and decay

^■o-u. the scoria, or ^'P^ ' and, except

they in no degree bear the calls “ the Fiery Surge,

uf Iiqiud matter. ^ tuaiks of having rolled as a stream \Ve descended tlip

almost at a run, and arrive ™’aT T^‘'^„"''th great rapidity han two hours. We then *" little more

'ug the trade by which we had pb ° and follow-

‘-eachetl, about fom o'c ock ?bi Pteceding day, iws^mable friend Mr. Barry ^ ‘Country-house of our

oa-urivd' on the^24ih''of is any distinct account,

fK‘shocksof ^^on twenty!

■■ ' .St a great liu-ht w^, foft. On the

'^ hiic mountains. Hem tt on Manja, towards the Were formed, which tlirp!^ ‘'Pened, and two volcanoes wf- ^''“oonsiderSle nm ^"^P^ to

sUU couiinuS to be H combustible matter,

'uea to be tlirown up, kindled above fifty u 2 '

32 THE SOOFFE'-ERE MOUNTAIN.

ikes ill the vicinity. The whole country for three le-ig' round was in flames, which were increased by |, volcano opening by at least thirty difterent vents within ^ circumference of half a mile. On the 2nd of following, another volcano broke out in the town of mar, swalloit'ing up a large church.

A subseq^uent eruption in 1706 filled up the pot | Guarachico. The lava, in its descent, ran five league’ll, six hours ; and on this lava houses are now built wh ships formerly rode at anchor. Neither of these erup^' were from the crater on the summit ot the peak, has not ejected lava for centuries, and it now issues h the flanks only. The last eruption was on the Qth of 179s, and was very terrible. Three new mouths ope'^ at the height of 8,130 feet, • upwards of a mile and above the level of tire sea, upon the inclined slope ot base of tlie Peak towards the S. W. Above this, at height of 10,240 feet, nearly two miles, M. Cordier w ^ a vast crater nearly four miles and a half in circumfere^ ^ which he ascertained to be very ancient. Its sides tremely steep, and it still presents the most frightful pi^. ^ of the violence of subterraneous fire. The Peak rises the sides of this monstrous aperture. To the S. W. j mountain of Cahorra, which is said to have become a canoinl797. The other mountains of Tenerifte, tradition reports to have been formerly volcanoes, at Roxo, or the red mountain ; several mountains, calv' Malpasses, lying to the eastward ; and one, in a souu^ direction, named Rejada. Throughout the whole ot ^ distance between Monte Roxo and the bay ot AdexC) cording to Mr. Glass, the shore is about 2500 teet, naif a mile, in height, and perpendicular as a wall. , , southern coast has a much superior elevation, the cht" j. mountains by which it is bounded being, agreeably Vincent, 8,320 feet, more than a mile and a half, aboV® level of the sea.

THE SOUFFRIERE MOUNTAIN,

IV THE ISE.VND OF ST. VINCENT.

This volcanic mountain, the dreadful eruption of we are about to describe, is the most elevated aP“

•'Orthcrl f , MOUNTAIN. 5^

island of St \°inrpnt'^^'T *'““‘''"2 tlirough tlie West-India and violence nf ' .u extraordinary frequency

lated rhTve ‘"1811, are calcu-

indicated irmi-K a' ■ . , ' mterini the mountain

so immediate as to^csTr'^^'^ ’ apprehension was not

visits to the erater w ! P‘'®vcnt repealed

than ever. Even on latterly been more numerous

‘^'-■ding the erunL, 1812, the day pre-

inaiiied there for gentlemen ascended and re-

remarked, nor anv a unusual was then

railier a stronger emissiorf'^'f^- *^'^^v*rence observed, except the conical hill, at the bottnm'’nf^H^ interstices of

have not visited this ro^man "r- ^ those who

fie»cnpUon of it, as it lately sm ®?'^.'^°"‘l?vful spot, a rfight . “ About 2000 feet from t) Previously necessary,

sale of the mountniif aT I “°«th 'ts heiglit, opens \ r,. ^i'^ two-thirds of

half a mile in diamete ' i® somewhat exceeding depth. Exacdy in the ^00 and 500 feet in

a coiiieal hill about 26(1 .‘^^Paoious bowl, rose

200 in diameter richlv cn^ height, and about

brushwood, and vines^aboS ''®"®S"ted with shrubs, der covered over with ^ halfway up. and the leinain-

d>e fissures of the coS an ‘"P- ^vom

white smoke was coneta <i ‘"fi'stices of the rocks, a thin nv'’ ' ^'“'sh flame I' occasionally tinged Jgnificent amphitheatre sides of this

nl' ^1*^ ‘'"'1 aromatic shrubs a various ever- P an a. On the north and many alpine

cone were two pieces of™*' °1‘ the base of tlie

’(-less, the other strono-lv imr,,.’ perfectly pure and Fk' *°"el.V and “beautiful* ®tdphur and ■ y ‘‘’.'""ig by the singulariv m I rendered more

“habitant of these uppCT of a bird, an

tun "tl'cr parts of the island~l’ altogether unknown opposed to be invisible th i ?^"ce principally called or "d^is a species of blackbird°'^'^^ ** ‘^‘^‘“inly has been seen,

mouiitaui, or since ^1“ 1“®^ convulsion of

of this wildenier b m ‘*‘^^"tbed the

cs», beside those which are common

S4

THE SOUFFRIBRE MOUNTAIN.

to the tropical tempest. It apparently slumbered in f, meval solitude and tranquillity, and, from the luxuO^

vegetation and growth of the forest, which covered its s' from the base nearly to the summit, seemed to di«coU»‘| nance the fact, and falsify the records of the ancient cano. .j.Such was the majestic, peaceful Soiiffriere, on APJ the 27th ; hut our imaginary safety was soon to be confoui' od by the sudden danger of devastation. Just as tlie p'^ ration bells rang at noon on that day, an abrupt and dre^ ful crash from the mountain, with a severe concussion of ^ earth, and tremulous noise in the air, alarmed all arouny , The resurrection of this fiery furnace was proclaimed lO moment by a vast column of thick, black, ropy like that of an immense glass-house, bursting fortli at and mounting to the sky ; showering down sand, with gf'*' cak-ined particles of earth and ashes mixed, on all belo

This, driven before the wind towards Wallibou and

Ronde, darkened the air like a cataract of rain, and cove'^ die ridges, woods, and cane-pieces widi hglit grey-coloU^. ashes, resembling snow when slightly covered by dust, j the eruption increased, this continual shower expand''^ destroying every appearajice of vegetation. At night a considerable degree of ignition was observed on the lip'* . (he crater ; but It is not asserted tliat there was as yet n visible ascension of flame. The same awfiil scene prescO'^ itself on the following day ; the fall of ashes and cald"^ pebbles still increasing, and the compact, pitchy cok'

from the crater rising perpendicidarly to an immense heig , •

with a noise at Intervals like the muttering of distant 1

On Wednesday, the 29th, all these menacing syn toms of horror and combustion still gathered more thick , terrific for miles around the dismal and half-observed tain. The prodigious column shot up with quicker dilating as it rose like a balloon. The sun appeared in eclipse, and shed a meridian twiliglit over us, that aggra''* J the wintry gloom of the scene, now completely posyd over with falling particles. It was evident that the t"‘'Sis ) yet to come— that the burning fluid was struggling vent, and labouring to tlirow otf the superincumbent and obstructions, which suppressed its torrent. it watt manifest that it had greatly disengaged itSelf tio'

butth K SOUFPIueee mountain. SS

of the crater^^^ appearance of fire flashing above the mouth

rwino-^un on*^thk 30lh of April, the reflection of the lime°beyoud curling vapour was sub-

or of the Andes' can but ^ Glaciers,

whitene's and hi-ur” feebly convey an idea of the fleecy

gled and vvTcltS °f intermin-

a more sulphureous™ci<;t afterwards assumed

clouds, and in the mn' ’ thunder-

fiauguine appe'ir'’nrf» ^ ferruginous and

«scL,aud^;rextenf livelier aefion in the

from every obstruction. In the afio"' if almost freed mcessant, and rescmhlnH ti fteruoon, the noise was nearer ami nearer, with a vibro*^- °f thunder still

and hearing : as vet ^ Hiat affected tlie feelings sensible carthnuake Tl,n convulsive motion, or

at the foot of the^ SoJif,^' settled at Morne Ronde,

their live stock and “^'°’^.'^™'lciicd their, houses, with

P~il.ita,driL,S,™7S;"S“»r »nJ9ed

♦orsook their work looVpi ^°"f“®cd,

shook, trembled wltMb 'i'® mountain, and, as it

*cr understand nor diSfl could nei-

overjiowered with showers 'i^ gi'ound,

'elves on the vving—thTcaid^ ashes, unable to keep them- asnot a blade ofgrasf or i 'vant of food,

sea was much disLloured h^l '"® found— the and It ,s remarkable, that tbr^^ uncommonly agitated ; lent disturbance of tiiSt" -PSl^out the whole of This vid I * a'' 1‘UIC synipaihira'^^^'f'''®'^ ftuhe passive, and

land. About four o’clock in tb '''‘c “gitatiou of the

■ “br?J be-

sea was much discoloured '"® found— the

and It ,s remarkable, that tbr^^ uncommonly agitated ; lent disturbance of thSt"°PSliout the whole of This vid I * a'' 1‘uie synipaihira'^^^'f'''®'^ ftuhe passive, and

land. About four o’clock in tb.'''!' ' “Sitatiou of the uaore alarming, and iust t “^*-®vnoou, the noise be- rc*flected a bright coppe l^^“‘" ‘he clouds

Steely bad the day dosed iT’ fire.

’S‘h PjTamidically from the flames burst at

niokej Ure rolling of^hfti. tln-ough die mass of deafening. elecUio niore awfiil

ended with loud dans • fluickly succeeded, at-

egan. Those only who Indeed, the tumult

¥"?u5 >1-

i6 the sqtjffrieee mouhtaiw. l

others shooting upwards from the mouth like rockets o most dazzling lustre— odiers like shells, Avith their tra'^ fuses, flying in different parabolas, with the most vivid * , tillations from the dark sanguine column, _ which ^ seemed inflexible, and immoveable by the wind. Sn . after seven in the afternoon, tire mighty caldron was ^ to simmer, and the ebullition of lava to break out oo N. W. side. This, immediately after boiling over the ^ lice, and flowing a short way, was opposed by tire acd' of aiigher point of land, over which it was impelle the immense tide of liquified fire that drove it on, fora^ the figure V in grand illumination. Sometimes, when , ebullition slackened, or was insufficient to urge it ^ the obstmcting liill, it recoiled like a refluent bd from the rock, anf then again rushed forward, by fresh supplies, a td, surmounting every obstacle, rocks and vt^oods togi tlier, in its course down the slo.I’^ the mountain, until it precipitated itself down it

ravine, concealed from our sight by the intervening of Morne Ronde. Vast globular bodies of fire were K projected from the fiery furnace, and, bursting, fell into it, or over it, on the surrounding bushes, which 'jy instantly set in flames. About four hours from the y boiling over the crater, it reached the sea, as we could ^ serve from the reflection of the fire and electric flasbe®^" tending it. About half past one, the following another stream of lava was seen descending to the east' , towards Rabacca. The thundering noise of the and the vibration of sound that had been so fornud^- hitherto, now mingled in the sudden monotonous the rolling lava, became so terrible, that dismay was turned into despair. At this time the first earthquake ^ felt ; this was followed by showers of cinders, whied with tlie hissing noise of hail, during two hours. f “ At three o’clock, a rolling on the roofs of the house*^^i( dicated a fall of stones, which soon thickened, and at le*-f descended in a rain of intermingled fire, which thrca|^^4 at once the fate of Pompeii, or Herculaneum. The e'jj ling coruscations fi-om the crater at this period exceed^^y th;Tt had yet passed. The eyes were struck with taiy blindness, and the ears stunned with a confo®'^’ sounds. Peqfie sought shelter in the cellars, under r

or anv I, derbtshire. 5f

•he miseraW^^tr"^”*^ o''^ place was nearly the same ; and 'lo'vn, or woundl'tl*^^’ ‘heir huts, were knocked

immediate vidniKr . ’ i’ , estates situated in tlie the stones which fell bem^hef ‘'esti'oclion. Had

not a living crLture - 7 Proportion to their size,

having uudfro-one a thnml^ 1 c escaped death : tliese, natural gravity ana f 11 ^nsion, were divested of their

“^ome places /s'lari.1 f ‘hough in

stones’and foe rln of

succeeded by cinders froirftW

ing. Earthquake followed * I ‘he morn-

OT rather the whole of this pait of^h momentarily ;

of continued oscillation • nor i -i in a state

honzontal ; but undulated cn hy shocks, vertical or

The break of Z f ^ shaken in a bowl,

terrific. Utter dirl’np called, was truly

‘he bhth of eight o’clock, and

chaotic gloom enveloned tl Jnrlgment : a

hie haze hung over the sen .™°untam, and an impenetra- sulphureous cast. The whoP.' sluggish clouds of a

rlers, scoria;, and broken 'sland was covered with cin- not until the afterno volcanic matter. It

mountains sunk gr.aduX’ ‘ ‘^nt'ering noise of the • 1 ence. Such are the mi-r ^ solemn yet suspicious mendous scone, from its this sublime and tre-

commencement to its catastrophe.

T.m Pca™'^ DERBYSHIRE.

*jn ^ hi.l.

eu .account of its mineral nrod?’!' 'celebrated, as well bos ,n general, as of whft aretnH curiosi-

these are natural ^v•0NnEns

oi-E, the Peak Cave'hm Hole, Eldew

St.An-k’s We,? ’T Hole.Mam-

d«Sd i*'' AND FlOWINS

that of lire S-Jsfu ®haU add a recent dis-

■ nnal interest. ‘^'hzed Cavern, which possesses an

^et-* lying about a mile to the westw.ard of

n i

58 THE PEAK OF DEKBYSHIIIE.

Buxton, is a vast cavern formed by nature 'm the UnaesW rock, and was, according to tradition, the residence of ^ out-law, named Poole. The entrance is low and contract®^ and the passage narrow ; but this widening, at length, k*’ , to a lofty and spacious cavern, from the roof of which * j. lactites or transparent crystals, formed by the const^ dropping of water laden with calcareous matter, han^ spiral ma.sses. Other portions of these petrifactions ojj and attach themselves to the floor, rising in cones, and ^ coming what are termed stalagmites. ^

One of the dropping stalactites, of an immense

llXl Jill t t ^

called the flitch of bacon, occure about the middle of ^

cavern, which here becomes very narrow, but soon sp^’^y to a greater width, and continues large and lofty until ' visitor reaches another surprisingly large mass of stalacb to which the name of Mary Queen of Scots’ Pillar is from tlie tradition of that unfortunate queen having a visit to the cavern, and proceeded thus far into its cesses. As this pillar cannot be passed without some diffit'O* ' few persons venture beyond it ; nor does it seem desirah as, by proceeding thus far, a very competent idea of vern may be formed. The patli hitherto is along the -S' and at some height from the bottom of the cavern ; but .

nc<^

visit and examine the interior extremity, it becomes nc^'^ sar)' to descend a few yards by very slippery and ill-foO'‘'|^ steps. The path at the bottom is tolerably even and 1-'^^ for about sixty feet, when an almost perpendicular _aS“ commences, which leads to the extremity of the flssti through the eye of St. Anthony’s needle ; a narrow beyond which the steepness of the way is only to be mounted by clambering over irregular masses of The cavern terminates at nearly three hundred feet be/' llie Queen of Scots’ pillar. Towards tlieendis an through a projecting rock, behind which a candle is gj*;: rally placed, when any person has readied the e.xtreuiji when seen at that distance, it appears like a dim .ilar. xisitor returns along the bottom of the- cavern, benc*'' i considerable portion of the road by which he entered ; by thus changing the path, has -an opportunity better to certain the height and width of the cavern, in every Pj >, and to view other accumulated petrifactions, some ct are ot' a prodigious size, and of an extraordinary forut’

“oe part of th' i>erbyshike. 59

rainy seasons mn= becomes more considerable m

sound. ?n pTsl? ?hf of the cavern,

cavity, which resembles rt?f ^ spacious and lo% con-

bas a fine effect To tV, of a Gothic cathedral,

^“The « a curious^Jho.“ ^

where met with in*tMa°naf^^^*'^*^^^ matter which are every llect innumerable rivs fro orccavation, and which re- am distinguished by the carried by the guides,

led most to resemble Th.i ^ objects they are faii- '“r /e, and his wootack ^is

«hatUieftirmsarecon^S;ti ft be noticed, however, water through the roof percolation of the

P-age a »c,rirhV;l“

EcnEsjH ■ hole.

a di'*'^ ‘u‘*'®''°“b-wesfo°^^^ gentle hill about

« deep chasm in the ErmmH ^ F°rest. It is

cemented stones, to^ nrevo’ ®'^™.™ded by a waU of un- ft" >^ock has beftf This fissure or

ft? beef rep?e'

With so *“oic, but as teemino" at a cpr_

evftwhfH°’^^‘”^“®diatTdes'tr ^ “'^’d not be

ft? de^<^ended into -t ^r. Lloyd, itow-

tbrfollof*®^''’'^'^^ "fdieserelft'^ has

Phical Trn*"^ ^ abstract nubr Paper> of which ft f ^"/actions, published in the Philoso-

obf, jbw,,. h. j

fti ■ AUhe difficult from

PevDcnf ^°P® varied at Ip thirty feet, tlie

ninff"5‘'^'>lar. The breadth qVh ®'?bteen feet from tho nine ^^^ienp-thpio-K*- was hereabout

lo,«^'f,'°wn. and wef \vih i *^be sides being irregular S opened il f ^^t & the bot-

fc «* V ? »“■■ "f ■ «ve 'tel- T’S 1»

°nl) from the mou? tlie f^d^^d fnd eighty-sis , tlie light from which was suffi-

60 THE PEAK OF DEKBYiHIR*. _

eiently strong to permit the reading of any book. terior af tlie chasm he describes as consisting of two pafy' which communicate with each other by a small arched sage, the one resembling an oven, the other the dome o . glass-house. On the soutli side of the latter, was a stn^ opening, about twelve feet in lengtli, and four in lined throughout with a kind of sparkling stalactite, of a Dj deep yellow colour, witli petrifying drops hanging from roof. Tracing the entrance he found a noble column, ninety feet high, of the same kind of incrustation. _ As proceeded to the north, he came to a large stone which ^ covered with the same substance ; and beneath it he a hole six feet in deptli, uniformly lined with it. From t”.

edge of this hole sprung up a rocky ascent, .sloping, nk • buttress, against the side of the cavern, and consisting'

OULUeSS, UgaulSL UlC Ui lUAi.

vast, solid, round masses of the same substance and coW ^ jiaving climbed this ascent to the height of about sixty he obtained some fine pieces of stalactite, which hung the craggy sides of the cavern. Descending with some culty and, danger, he proceeded in the same direction, " soon came to another pile of incrustations of a brown colo

».«-» jyx.w - - - - ■ rj

above which he found a small cavern, opening into ^ - ’ ’■ 1-11 entered. Here lies'*.

side of the vault, which he

vast masses of stalactite, hatiging like icicles from every P*^^ of the roof : several of these were four and five feet lo”^ and as thick as a man's body. The sides of the latg^^ cavern were chiefly lined with inemstations of three kn' ■ the first of which was a deep yellow stalactite j the secoJJ a thin coating which resembled a pale stone-colour varn’' and reflected the light of the candle with great splendo*^^ and the tlilrd, a rough efflorescence, the shoot of which

sembled a rose flower. ^

‘The authors of a recent publication thus state the suit of their observations and inquiries relative to F Hole. They describe the mouth of this chasm as borizontally, in a direction from north to south ; its sh‘^ being nearly that of an irregular ellipsis, about ninety in length, and twenty-seven in breadth at die widest p^^^ The iwrthcrn end is fringed with smdl trees ; and moss underwood grow out of. the crevices on each side, to depth of forty or fifty feet. As the fissure recedes h Cie snrfitce, it gradually contracts i and at tlie dept**

about sevpnh, Derbyshire, ' 61

prevent its course

"anding the oWarl« Notwith-

of Stone, it was sountlpr! ^ {toshes and projecting masses two hundred and two ffeet~ ^’'ceed

With the assertion of three estimate which corresponds search of the bodies of inr|- descended in

yere supposed to havfbe^^'lu'^ and

>nto tliis frightful abyss. ™ murdered, and tlirown PEAK CAVERN.

i, oneof Ihose

ton and is approached hv the vicinity 0} Castle-

twulet, leading to the fissure ^ ^

Je extremity of which the ’ '®PR';ation of the rock, at ffioult to imagine a seem mo"™ It would be

P esents itself to the visitor Tt t! *^tit which

«te huge grey rocks r e f entrance ; on each side, of nea„, ^ hmidf Perpendicularly, to the height of ' modeirTlmme seien times

frim formTde^"'^’ meeting each other at

aimei "''erhung by a vast gloomy recess. In

h^r " pressed arohTJ°^ ^^^“ming tlve inme“^^™j®"d twenty feet “jl extending, in width, ninety fe^t'^"^*’ ®^°ut ninety "a forty-twoj and gentle / cavern, the 'roof P®tietrating about

trance t^®tRahedrock ?o d' “

in.,- °t tins tremendous holinxv tlie interior en-

*'tor if diminished, wholly df™

provided with a torch to ill ^ ‘^'^appears -, and the vi- ohV *4 now becomln his further progress.

L Pt°eeed, in a stnoni ^ ®*b emely confined, he is

and"'' ’^^at^bes a spacious^ Posture, about twenty yards,

aho '! I^®'tce led to a sm^H named the Bell-house,

tT in k J, akc, called the Rrsi JVaUr.

m depUi. Over thf! t,’ ^ "^ore than two or three

^vtr tins he is conveyed in a boat to the £!

■bif*

THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIEE.

feriol of the cavern, beneath a massive vault of rock,

!n some parts descends to -within eighteen or twenty of the water, “We stood some time,” saysM. deSt. F°''

‘ ' on the brink of this lake; and tlie light of our dismal tord> which emitted a black smoke, reflecting our pale im^*^ from its bottom, we almost conceived that we saw a of spectres starting from an abyss to welcome us. illusion was extremely striking.” _

Oit landing, the visitor enters a spacious vacuity, feet in length, 200 feet in breadth, and in some ' t feet in height, opening into the bosom of the rock ; from the want of light, neither the distant sides, nor , roof of this abyss, can be seen. In a passage at the if ^ extremity of this vast cave, the stream which flows throf jj the whole length of the cavern, spreads into what is the Second Water, and near its termination is a projed.' ,

pile of rocks, known by the appellation of Roger "" from the incessant fall of water in large

House

through the crevices of the roofs.

Beyond this, o!

another tremendous hollow, called the Chancel, W

•!t^

the rocks are much broken, and the sides covered ''’i

stalactical or petrified incrustations. Here the visito| ■ surprised by a vocal concert which bursts in discoi'<^' tones from the upper regions gf the chasm. “ S*'

upper regions gt ttie ciiasm. " ,1

observes a modern toitrist, “ this being unexpected, issuing ftom a quarter where no object can be seen,

place where all is still as death, is calculated to impress j imagination with solemn ideas, and can seldom be

without that mingled emotion of awe and pleasure, nhhment and delight, which is one of the most interest'

feelings of the mind.” At the conclusion of the st^

the choristers, who consist of eight or ten women and dren, are seen ranged in the hollow of the rock, fifty feet above tlie floor.

The path now leads to a place whimsibally called j Devil’s Cellar and Half-tvay House, and thence, by

natural and regular arches, to a vast concavity, which,

its uniform bell-like appearance, is called Great

Lincoln. When illumined by a strong light, this conct*'|^

has a very pleasing effect ; tlie synmietrical dispositio" the rocks, the stream flowing beneath, and the spi^jjiii in the roof, forming a very interesting picture. From

point tliPi , OF dbreysture. 63

length doe? S 'loscends^ the passage Contracts, and torrent of the ^"ffioient room for the

subterraneous channer'rf'^ ' continues to flow through a provedbytlresma ^ i" c=^tcnt, as is

from the distant mines ofuSSk 'f ° 'r

near]/ * °4d ^

I’cak mountain, about 620 feet &

<luced by the exnlosinn curious effect is pro- per, wedged into the rock in gunpow-

for the sound appears tn r i/ mtenor ot the cavern ; a tremendous and^conVm a “ “'® ''°°f sides, like

° fr'c light, on retumlrtn^f: "" effect

cularly impressive: and recesses, is par-

rocks which become brio-htc- gradual illumination of the ts ,said to exhibit one of“tl, pntrance is approached,

ever employed the pencil, w interesting scenes that

tion of a spectator. artist, or It.xed tlie adinira-

tou.

Tor Or tfi » q

Cipicc facing the Mountain, is a huge pre-

pecuUar kind of slate wMcl^' composed of a

” f^P°5cdto the air ’ve„ ^ very hard before it

y Hence it is per^!/ ^11'^'“™^'®® 1° ®u such

Stone t' '5’°"' i 'vhile .wasted by the action of

f om tl^"’^ “ and larger masses of

5cc?.- u P“‘^‘cns. and this till necessarily fall

occasionally so loud .as to be hetd “.^"“^niig noise which is

thev'\° valley beneath ^ distance

^c.r tragments to the extent of 5 1 ‘'.°'^®'-whelmed with o^he precipice, they prXe 'In many parts

jceneiy, higllV daXlous'tS ^ ^ y most intelligent of xh^ .^PP^^^ched. It is affirmed anH ‘"“"'‘'lain chiefly waste, j"®‘.f^’^°F;ngInhabitants, that

^nd r,ain ; and Mr^Marth violent storms of snow

thaT!.^ °‘'’ ‘"lliel’hilosonldrll m Pchhshed an account of h-nt the decay i, ,inf ^“ ^^'^“’^®^ctions for 1729, affirms ’“''•eyed it closely same. He not

but ascended the steepest part of thi

1)1 THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE. ^

precipice, without tracing any other shivering in the W® , tain, beside that which was occasioned by the treadiW his feet in die loose crumbled eardi.

THE EBBIiSG AND PEOWING WELL,

isi?

In the vicinity of Chapel-en-le-Frith is a steep hill,

J . i. ^ aft 111*

to the height of more than a hundred feet, immedit>: ■ ■ It is o'

beneath which this natural phenomenon lies.

irregular form, but nearly approaching to a square,

..... trr aIcivvFK or»/1 oKrvnf- YtTr<aT-»fYr -foof in

two or three feet in depth, and about twenty feet in

Itsebbings and flowings are irregular, and depef

Jill MWV* •■••O O ' L fh

on the quantity of rain which falls in the ditFereiit sons of the year ; when it begins to rise, die current ^ only be perceived by the slow movement of the bhideS^| grass, or other light bodies floating on the surface ; not"''^| standing which, before the expiration of a minute, ^ water issues, with a guggling noise, in consideiable tities, from several small apertures on the south

sides The interval of time between the ebbing and

ing is not always alike ; consequently the proportio''^ water it discharges at different periods, also varies. ; space of flve minutes fle wing, the water occasionally ri^^ the height of six inches j and, after remaining a few scc'*^ stationary, die well assumes its former quiescent state- The cause of the intermittent flowing of this well

be satisfactorily explained, on the principle of the actio''^ the syphon, and on the supposition of a natural one municatiiig with a cavity in the hill, where die water ^

be supposed to accumulate : — but for the phenonicnyJ|^

its ebbing, no satisfactorily reason has been assigned.

opinion of a second syphon, as ingeniou.sly advanced morlern Tourist, which begins to act when the water r' ,

IS inconsistent with the appearance of the well, and t*' fore cannot be just.

ST. ANNE S WELL.

J

This Well, the usual resort of die company who frel'^< Buxton to drink the waters, has been classed aiuoi'^^ wonders of the Peak, on account of this singularity-<j|ji) within five feet of the hot spring by which it is supF

» CoW DERBYSHIRE, 65

kind ^sinrl^h 's not, however^ the only well of

*nany patts of p ° i springs rise near each other in

is coLeyed tlS n' ““^«es. The water

'"g. in the GreciaTstvk^‘f' classical build-

narrow passatre so ol ^ original spring, by a

it fiom blinf an^oo ^ “titrived al to prev^t

received in a^whUe ® portion of its heat, and is

Bath water Is I" so wai-m as tho

Fahrenheit. ' temperature being about 80 degrees of

HE crystallized CAVERN.'

^RYSTALLT

Byshire Peak, has F)er-

'!!'• hS! pS? '™'‘“

*"«'t for about grand ; and the de-

to pass afong a f ino^' ^«itor has

inde, the openinf blw '^7 for nearly a quarter of a Particula“ plic^ *t is impossible to pro-

^’stallizations which now posture. The different

barf him forc-ot ti his attention on every side,

bamsh every idea fa ' “Bsoiueuess of the road, and i '\‘}°rie on the other- objects of curiosity

olm “ P^V‘^^=tions take d the 3^usic Cham-

S “therparts thf'^'^f “ P‘P®^ =tn

thev hadT^ co'onnades, Vljhl ®^®^"'^tites are formed into indi ■’ chiselled by tlie ® symmetry as if

judiciously disposed withiia t er^I‘ =’«ist. cLdles fhP of fairies, or of f of the ima-

nipared to any tliina- 1 '^^yonly spot, for it cannot be -TstallizedcalV^^^ is, W itself, a beautifu! !7"‘yfoet,po'red at ,h Poet high, and in length ouiiUess number of ^ P°P= ®™'iarto

aige stalactites hanging from tlie

66 THE PEAK OP HERBYSHIRE. ,

roof. Caudles placed among them give some idea being lighted up with elegant glass chandeliers ; while . sides are entirely incrusted, and brilliant in the estr^^ The floor is chequered with black and white spar. . altogether, Mr. Hutchln.son observes, the most novel^ elegant appearance of any cavern he ever beheld. glittering apartment would be left by the visitor^"'' , certain degiee of regret, did he not expect to see it on his return. -

- Still continuing a route similar to the one he has in the course of which his attention is occasionally aite by the curiosities of the place, and by the gentle dropp® of' the water, which scarcely break the solemn silent the scene, he at length reaches the Grolto of Calypso, j the extremity of the cavern, upwiuds ot 2000 feet frotf^ entrance. To see this grotto to advantage, he has to ast about six feet, into a recess. There, the beautiful apR _ ances of the different crystallizations, some of them azure cast, and the echoes reverberating from side to make him faitcy that he has reached the secluded retrea some mythological deity. . a

Returning by the same path for a considerable dista^ another cavern, which branches in a south-western j from the one already explored, presents itself. The f « here are still more difficult of access, but tlie stala|^ , are certainly most beautiful. Many of them, more tl’ , yard in length, are pendent from tlie roof, and the part do not exceed the dimension of the smallest ^ The top and sides of tliis cavern are remarkably sen . particularly at the part called the Amphitheatre. In get’^ the stone is of a very dark colour, to which the' ttans^^j appearances before mentioned, with each a drop of hanging at its extremity, tprm a fine contrast.

SPEEDW-EKL LEVEI,.

In the Speedwell Level, or Naviuation tlie vicinity of Castleton, art has been combined w'it*'j .subterraneous woi’.ders of n.atnre. Being provided linlits, the guide leads the vidtor beneath an arched ' by a flight of 10b step.s, to tlie sov^k or level, where is ready for his reception, and which is put in mob'’

PUshina 5 DERBYSHIRE. 6?

Proceprl"^ driven into the wall for that purpose.

tbrdof amile through va- Eoof and bottom of '^i a tremendous gulf, the

navigatSr has bP ' “r^in^hlble, but across which °v«r a p5 of by throwing a strorig arch

rated. ^He,f ‘he rocks are least sepa-

erected above\he Ipvpf boat, and ascending a stage ‘•‘-'^'^dtothe da Lt ’ / «ipnof the vishor is d\- fi'-m indeed must be bk ‘ .^byss_ beneath his feet; and d;e scene unmoved and sv’ltl contemplate

^ the depth of nincK^'r ^ involuntary shudder, beyond thatcommSps n ‘%'’'’^«ity and gloom; but

hith may msome mea5urp^ ^’ * Prodigious range of stance ot its havinc- sw^llnxl ‘=°nccived, by the circum- rnbbish, made in bh,tin!r i ‘^^=000 tons of

diminution either of iis '''thont any apparent

■'« '>»> '!» ,L S? «' 11« g««l« »■

tcason to believe that h ascertained ; hut there is

about 320 feet. There standing wafer is

•hat this _ abyss has '^""bt but

eeply situated in the others still more

y ^'^h the precipitated nirm the mountain, and into superfluous water of tb “J’bish has found a passage. The

pp*. . " ^ ^ noi,se like a rush'msf tor-

This fissure Is calcub.r ^

ward“‘".t''^ the mourita'in beet beneath

. 'bat rockets of sufficiem bs reach up-

■ been tired without rend^f’®"Syb to ascend 450 feet, ct of a Bengal light disch-iro- "’“b visible. I'bc

" 't'^Snificent 'nd stupendous cavity

^ the lUfiii TOE.

^Aa-LocK Dale objects presented by

ff. 'bribed, in pr^po tbm ^''bich will be cursorily

leview. P'"PoU.on as these objects pass under oiu

‘'oB ot Matlock, a specimen of the

68 THE PEAK OF DEKBYSHIBE.

Scenery by ■which this charming vale is distinguished’ ' sents .tself. The entrance is through a rock, -whie**

been blasted for the puqrose of opening a convenie' sage ; — and here a scene which blends the constituent t

entf

ciples of the picturesque, the beautiful, and the sul

Through the inrddl®.

opens suddenly on the view. ... —

narrow plain flo'W's the Derwent, overhung by a pr°‘ of luxuriant beeches and other drooping trees. Tn'' the east are gently rising grounds; and on the v/f’ ^ huge mural banks of tlie vale stretch along, the whh® ^ of the rock of which they are composed occasional!)' playing itself through the w’oody clothing of their sid*^

summits. This magnificent scenery is singularly coh

by the manufactories and lodging-houses at the bott®'^ the vale. .

To see this magic spot to the greatest advantage, it sf, be entered at its northern extremity, its beauties tfie*'^ ceeding each other in a proper gradation, and their and effect being rendered more impressive. T!'® i) attention is now attracted to the High Tor, a grai'‘*| stupendous rock, which appears like a vast abrupt "'‘1.

limestone, and rises almost perpendicularly from the ^ to the height of upwards of 350 feet. The lower

The lower p‘^

this majestic feature is shaded by yew-trees, elms,*'; and underwood of various foliage ; but the upper

fifty or sixty yards, presents a rugged front of one

mass of perpendicular rock. From its summit the

a-

seen in all its grandeur, diversified by woods of varioU’^,; and species. The -vinndings of the Derwent, tlie gf®;

coloured rocks, and the white fronts of the houses.

0"'

somed amidst groves of trees which sprout froin ^ crevice of the precipices, give variety and animatio>* scene of wonderful beauty.

CHEE TOB.

In a romantic and deep hollow, near the little vil*^^( Wormhill, the river Wye flo’W's beneath this stup^'';( mass of rock, which rises perpendicularly more tl''"\|j> feet above its level. The channel of the river, 'V meanders at the base, is confined between huge limestone, having such a general correspondence of

^''’n nnd form ^’Erbtshire, dg

'''"'ed. In soi^g® probable that they were oiwe

"’00(1, nut-trees and mnn ^/’l®P^’‘t“Hy covered with brush- totally nakeVpreS '^ ^^ile in other's, tlrey

in a direction \o iiLrirchol The chasm

Tor, and its dependant m '^“lar, that the sublime CiiEE ?t«lby thcrivc?wS =*lmost insu-

♦f possesses If" l^trgtlr, as

‘ 'd iix. hundred yards • a disH ^ I*t5ataty, is between five P'^^tnrosque and iuterestim. presents several

P e scenery being enhancld wf' ‘ f general effect of the bouring heights, Ld bv alr'f f*'® Plantations on theneigh- S Ilf ^ flte rfver

Chee Da e, pf r'S ?P°t. the four v^ f f nT

wi... Ife Dfe VX S’

MASSON HILL.

Ami wiU, ;;■'*« ’'"'I® =>"'1 l>'cafc,

eep m wide caves nci'*^ tlinty tectli’

“Olphurs flame f'.® d»ngcrous^soil. ’

stream, in "r?" <1 «'“t'rs boil. ' n‘™“*5b rifled rock, i* "f ^‘’•"'nus rise till:: “'"Sl’t f as of “>« ‘>‘i« ;

Prom cliff "to

?"crf of treasure

t; Cl cor , Is, shells an, I oi* ‘ te* atnone And ‘’’'iSiccn liiosscs' a^nd tf’ “'“ng '

TH.svervh-l •

^i*me<wf ‘■'I’. *1*°“

thehei I ■'^P.t’^nent. Its summit k bio by fif f^^I^fftat name near ‘ts resemblance to

look-/ ^'tterprize of ti * ^ ffnebec, rendered so raeniora- tttent, so as lo command a view

7<J THE PEAK OF DEIIIIVSHIEE.

of almost Ihe whole length of the A’alley. Its coiibiJaW^^ elevation above the surrounding objects greatly changes ih®®; general size arid appearance. Even the High Tor scei>j, considerably diminished in grandeur and sublimity ; but Uij’ effect is partly compensated by the extent of the prospo'- J and the variety of objects it comprehends. Theheigld^^ this eminence is about 75O feet, the path to it.s summit lit"' ing been carried, in a winding direction, llirough a At die one half of its a.scent is an alcove, from which j'' extensive view of a great part of Matlock Dale may ^ seen, through a fine avenue formed for that purpose.

THE CUMBERLAND CAVERN.

To the west and north-west of die village of Matlock three apertures in the rock, respectively n.amcd the BEELAND, Smedeey, and Rutland Caverns. The forif^ of these is well deserving of a short notice.

The entrance is partly artificial, to afford a greater lity to the visitor, who has to descend fifty-four steps. cavern now opens on him in solitar}’' grandeur. Huge 111^ ses of stone are piled on each other with a tremendous k»’^ of carelessness, evideudy produced by some violent cussion, though at an unknown period. He is conduct'-^ to a long arid wide passage, the roof which has all the gularity of a finished deling, and is bespangled by spars " various descriptions. From above, fiom beneath, and the sides, the rays of the lights are reflected in every recdon. In an adjacent compartment rocks are heaped rocks in terrible array, and assume a threatening "Next is an apartment decorated with what, in the lange^^ of the country, is called the snow fosiil — a petrifacb'^.j which, bodi in figure and colour, resembles snow, as drifted by the winter storm into the cavities of a Near die extremity of the cavern are to be seen fishes P

trified and fixed in the several strata which form the rounding recess One of these has

its back jutting *’***

ot

act

tli<

if the side of the earth, as if it had been petrified io ‘y ct of swimming. In another branch of the cavern a ’

has Aeen found of a considerable depth.

'Ofna Jiroceeded about « mile in Dove Dale, tiin

'‘otic 1 sublime beauties of which will be hereafter

■'^’‘iris ' ^ constantly diversified by new fantastic

Icilto’ uncouth combinations of rock, the visitor is mural rock, bearing the above name, and to . uature into a gnmd arch, nearly approachiag

Uifg ®kapc of the sharply-pointed gplhic style of architec- forty-five feet in Jieight, and in widtli twenty. ■3 passed through tills arch, a steep ascent leads to a Cavern, called .Reynard’s Hall, forty-five feet in

iiatunf through tills arch, a steep ascent leads to a

leiigjji '^^'icrn, called .Reynard’s Hall,

’-he 1^’ “fieen in brcadtli, and in height thirty. From and cavern the scenery is sin^lar, beautiful,

arcJi^ ^‘'cc of the rock, which contains the

''eiitt'ie^*^* *‘ainiediatcly in front, and would elfectually pre- •tot from ranging beyond its mighty barrier, did

'''Meh ^”*^copen into the above-nienlioned arch, tlirough '^'’''sisiii,^ ^ P‘'"- opposite side of the Dale,

''’hich gloomy wood, from llie shade of

v^tsont detached rock, solitary, cnigged, and pointed, ^iie, . 'pj^? ^ great height, and forms an object truly sub-

...■''-6 c,r '

•■pj. -

.r^ lock, which has received the name of Dove

pas-

‘'"'al P'easkigly contrasted by the little.

oni.„- '^“'’*'■1 and by its verdant turfy batiks. A iiar- I “Pciinig at the ' ' " ' ‘

to oh“ exti'emity of the cavern is supposed to

f *'■ is a cavities in the rock ; -and on tlie

forty feet in length, in breadth \icight twenty-six, called Reynard's Kir

Sent,

sill

of interior of which a pleasing view is pre-

^'’'^'•pasS

"’‘^d'mid ,c'i citliersitle, and ajipear in shapes

if, .'"=r na- • '^PPci' part of the dale, its river, and rocks. Msri P"*'‘nSlfKYNARD’s HoL ’Pore .. IT -’Peru

E, already described, the lersitl

inegular, but diversified and softened by in length j but fiom

’Pbs.

it T)

Vie ^'‘li'osity

’”'0 limited* projecting precipices, tlie

«^ountry “

Paron,,^ ®unimr ■ -

onghout the whole of this niajes- liie river Dove flow.s, in tlie halcyon _

'■Pdy over^if*^’’ *’*’^*' nanniiurs, innocently and trans* ’ pebbly bed j but swells into rage during the

72 THfc PEAK OF DERBVSniRE.

winter months. Little tufts of shrubs and underwood foW islands in miniature within its bed, which enlarge and the other objects. The scenery of this Dale is distiuguisljf^ from almost every other in the United Kingdoms, by rugged, dissimilar, and frequently grotesque and fanf’^ appearance of the rocks. To employ the words of a 13 tourist, “ It IS, perhaps, on the whole, one of the pleasing sceneries of the kind any where to be met It has .sometliing peculiarly characteristic. Its detacbe perpendicular rocks stamp it with an image entirely its o«' ^ aid for that reason it affords the greater pleasure. For n in scenery as in life. We are most struck with tlie peC“ liarityof an original character, provided there be noth'*' oftensivc in it.”

thor’s house.

tVlicre Hamps and Manifold, tlieir cliffs among,

Encli in his flinty cliannci wind* along.

With lucid lines' tlie dusky moor divides,

Hurrying to iutt-rmix their sister tides.

Where still their silver-bosom'd nymphs abhor The hlood-sniear’d mansion of gigantic Thor—

Erst fires volcanic in the marble womb Of cloud-vvrapp'd Wiietton rais'd the nias.sy dome Kocks rear'd on rocks, in huge disjointed piles,

Eorm the tall tnrrets, and the lengthen'd aisles;

Broad pond'rous piers sustain the roof, and wide Branch the va.st lainbotv ribs from .side to side.

B'hilc from above descends, in milky streams,

One scanty pencil of illusive beams.

Suspended crags, and gaping gulfs illumes.

And gilds the horrors of the deepen’d glooms,

—Here oft the > aiads, as they chance to stray Near the dread Fane, on Thor’s returning day,

.Siiw from red altars streams of guiltless blood,

Stain their green reed-beds, and pollute their flood ; Heard dying babes in wicker prisons wail.

And .shrieks of matrons tin ill the affrighted gale;

While from dark cave.s infernal echoes mock.

And fiends triumphant shout from cv’ry rock!

Dab'’*'

T111.S spacious cavern is situated about two miles 3 ^ Dove Dale, near the village of Whetton ; and savs that the Druids liere offered human sacrifices, in wicker idols, lo Tltor, tiie principal, deity of the &*

TS PKAK fllf BERKys.HIRE

tieailj iJ-ol:>trous worship. Be-

f'Vei'5 H ®*tensive and romantic common, wliere the ill jj,| •’TOps and Manifold sink into the earth, and riseagain A wo^'i* S^rdens. These rivers merit a brief description, took ^’ddge has been thrown over an abyss in the prisi,’J’“*- '^diich the river Manifold bursts witli sur- fiva i’tiving pursued a subterraneous course

die the point where it had engulfed itself in

’ ^‘‘'■‘■'d Weston Hill. At the further dis- iifre ‘ }’ards a simlkir phenomenon occurs ; for

riv ^^^sure in ihe rock pre.scnts itself, whence

^P I rows its waters into day. This river

Leek-watek Houses, a place between ^itirso > ti'us puitsuing a subterraneous

On (ijg. miles, before it again emerges into light,

lets t'^ ^'hersion, the temperature of the two rivers dif- djgrecsand a half, the Hamps being the coldest.

THU LOVERS LEAP.

abound in romantic sites, among of which is the Dale named the Lovers*

i'*" iin-' “'^^■°hi:t of a vast precipice which forms one side lov» ,‘’^rrow cha . r r , ^

I®''ky . is said to have precipitated herself into the L ^■'ded i Each side of this beautiful dell

iiasm, and from the summit of which

fl, f SiUC I.U UCwJUlUUt LlCXl JO

^ ^ for 3 ^ ‘-dpvated rocks, the proximity of which is such, P.^ssaprr, ^,.'’°d^idcniblc space there is scarcely room for tlie

^die bubbling current of the Wye.

and bare of

Several of vegetation ;

• focks

® others POfFoiidicular,

di ** cratr ‘■'overed with ivy, yew, and ash-wood, A e^?^ occasionally starting through the ver- tly'^ road, extending in circumference about

" dal,, ’ P^ses in view of the most romantic part of • 0‘td forms - -

'At(

Oil.

At I

•PilV^o- At I ^ 'ory agreeable walk or ride front

dianc* southern extremity the scenery assumes a froij^ the hollow taking the name of Mill tjj ^tioii "'‘th''anlli which is turned by the stream. In con- ^ Jtide bridge, a mountainous path, and other very picturesque view. Another lick ^’®®®tUed by a lofty rock, called Swallow ®tid ^ mass of wood, the river at its bas«

3nng over b'oVen masse- ©t

‘Or.

/4

THE PEAK OF DEKBTSHIKB.

THIS MOORS.

Dekbtshiee is every where fruitful in natural curiosili^ among the most striking of which may be reckoned ' Moors of Hope Parish, inasmuch as they afford an exo ordinary instance of the preservation of human bpo interred in them. In the year 1074 a grazier and liiS male servant, in crossing these Moors on their way to • land, were lost in the snow, with which they were covC' from January to May, when, on their being found, , bodies were so offensive that the Coroner ordered theif be buried on the spot. After a lapse of twenty-nine ye^ on tlie ground being opened, they were in no w.ay chatty the colour of the skin being fair and natural, and the as soft as tliat of persons newly dead. For twenty ceeding years they were occasionally exposed as a spect»^|^ but carefully covered after being viewed. They lay at deptli of about three feet, in a moist soil, or mow. Minister of Hope Parish was present in 1710, years after the accident, at a particular inspection of % bodies. On the stockings being drawn off, the niaif s ■which had not been uncovered before, were quite fair = flesh, when pressed by the finger, pitted a little ; and ,, joints played freely, witliout the least stifthess. Such V , of the clothing as tlie avidity of the country people^ possess so great a curiosity, had spared, were firm ^ good ; and a piece of new serge, worn by the womani not appear to have undergone any sensible change.

OTHER ENGLISH CURIOSITIES

Among the extraordinary caverns to be found mountains of the north of England, may be recoil) Yordas Cave, in the vale of Kingsdale, i.i Yorkshire, " ^ contains a subterraneous cascade, Whethercot Ca'' '

BXlTltH MOUMTAUJi. 7*

^ from Ingleton, is divided by an arch of limestone, pass- ^ Under which is seen a large cascade falling from a of more than sixty-feet. The length of this Cave s about one hundred and eighty-feet, and the breadth *unety. ^

There are also in various parts of England many re- markable springs, of which some are impregnated either 'Ih salt, as that of Droitwich, in Worcestershire ; or “Ulphur, as the famous well of Wigan, in Lancashire, or 'uuninous matter, as that at Pitchford, in Shropshire, y^^rs have a petrifying quality ; as that near Luttemorth, y ~®'<^ostershire, and a dropping well in the West Riding of j^orkshire. And, finally, some ebb and flow, as that of the described above, and Laywell near Torbay, whose 3ters rise and fall several times in an hour. To these we add that remarkable fountain near Richard’s Castle, m „ ^'^'^ordshire, commonly called Bone Well, which is ^“erally full of small bones, like those of frogs or fishes, °“gh often cleared out. At a cliff near Wigan, in Lan- the famous burning well ; the water is cold, nei- iss^*^ '*■ smell j yet so strong a vapour of sulphur '"'‘th the stream, that upon applying a light to it, bu the water is covered with a flame, like that of

spirits, which lasts several hovus, and emits such a that meat may be boiled over it.

BRITISH MOUNTAINS.

ijjju* ,®frtish Isles pre.sent many mountains of a bold and WijjcL ^tiaracter ; when contrasted, however, with those a..., , ttave been nlrf^nriv rlpsprihed. thev must he ronsi-

already described, they must be consi- comparatively diminutive.

b>:n kkvis.

The 1

tts these mountains is Ben Nevi.s, in Scctlaiid

.atiou above the level of the sea being 4380 ieet.

^curihtj elevates its rugged li'ont far above all the iivigh-

« li * . A _. t _ 1 . . . V # -1

• more than four-fifths of a mile. It termiustrs is

'^^’Ulcr iis nig^L’U Jium iiu juuvc itii

m°P'*hiins. It is of easy ascent ; and at the pe; pett- *Cight of 1 5C0 feet, the vale beneath presents a vci>

76 BRITISH MOUNTAINS.

Rgi'eeable prospect, the vista being beautified by a diversity of bushes, shrubs, and bircli woods, beside many little ver- dant spots. The sea and the shore are also seen.

At the summit, the view extends at once across the Island, eastwards towards the German sea, and westv-ard to the Atlantic Ocean. Nature here appears on a majes- tic scale, and the vastness of the prospect engages the whole attention, at the same time that the objects in view are of no common dimensions. Just over the opening of the sound._ at the south-west corner of Mnll, Colonsay rises out of the sea, like a shade of midst, at the distance of more than ninety miles. Shuna and Lismore appear like small spol» of rich verdure, and, though nearly thirty miles distant; seem quite under the spectator. 'I'lie low ])arts of Jura cannot be discerned, nor any part of Isla ; far less the coast of Ireland, as has been asserted. Such is, liowever, the wide extent of view, that it extends ] 70 miles from the horizon of the sea at the Murray Firtli, on the N. E-> to the Island of Colonsay, on the S.W,

On the N.E. side of Ben Nes'is is an almost perpendi- cular precipice, cerlainlv not less than HOO feet in depth t probably more, as it aiipetirs to exceed the third part of the entire lieight of the nionnlain. A stranger is astonisiicd at the sight of this dreadful rock, which has a quantity of snow lodged in its bosom throughout the whole year. The sound of a .stone thrown over the did’ to the bottom, can' not be heard when it falls, .so that it is irapo.ssible to ascer- tain in that way the height of llic precipice.

SNOWDON.

Tuts is the loftiest of the Welch mountains, i*s elevatiot’ above the level of the sea being ;t/20 feet, nc.'.ily three <|uarters of a mile. It is accessible on one .side only, Banks being in every otiier quarter 'preci[;ilou.s. It.s a.sped soon convinces the spectator that he is not to look to tht^ Alps alone, or to the rocky regions of .'Mtal, bord.ering oo Siberia, for romantic scent s of wildness, cnttfcs'r.u, an‘j disorder. Snowdon presents them in all their tude an*' native m.ajesty.

In the ascent, a narrow path, not more than nine feet vidth, leads along the margin of a (rightful precipice

BRITISH MOUNIAINS. 77

jj'ar'y 1500 feet in extent, so perpendicular that it cannot approached without terror ; while to the north of the y**ruit nearest to the one the most elevated, a seinl-am- Wuiieatre of precipitous rocks, also of a great height, is )• and, behind this summit, another semicircle of equal ^Pth ami extent. The loftiest summit here appears to ^j^'scentl ill the form of a shaiqi ridge, and beneath it ano- appears, which, on account of its colour, is y the Black Rock. From the upper part of the Uey one of , these summits presents a grand, vertical, and ^ elevated point.

tti' bottom of each of the amphitheatres of rocks, in number, is occupied by a small lake of a circu- torm, and very deep. The one known by the name of Glass is remarkable for its green hue, derived from its its'^i^ 'tttpregnated with copper, several mines of which line bg Than this mountain nothing in the Alps can

ate tind desert, those regions alone excepted which

lofty to admit of vegetation. Here there is not a «hee’ ® shrub : small patches of verdure, which

Qj. .P can scarcely reach, are alone to be seen. Its summit, cn[j^l!^“ost peak, is a flat of about eighteen feet only in cir- o{ o '^‘once. Tlience may be seen a part of Ireland, a part \V'ji'^°oand, Cumberland, Lancashire, Cheshire, all North iotj '^be Isle of Man, and the Irish and British seas, with d;sj)]'''^’'^ble lakes ; while the whole island of Anglesea is so distinctly, that its flat and uncultivated plains^ Ilyl I ““ by the rich Parys mountain in the vicinity of ^ oad, may be descried as on a map.

I'o

CADKR IDRI.S.

*^bject of Dolgellau, Cader Idris towers above the ttio which seem to retire, to allow its

bettgf jp® j'oom to stand, and to afford to their sovereign a gtadugm^ It stands on a broad rocky base, wifli a ^Ives iti ’’^^'^’*^10 its brow, when the peaks elevate them- V abrupt, picturesque, and distinct, to b f^h'^^^'oally named Cader, appears to the eye poinr*^ ^ superior in height to the saddle ; but the *^®riliiy ■ ’ ttpex, which has a name expressive of its * *s neither equal in height, nor in beauty, to tlie

78 BRITISH MOUNTAINS.

other two. On its loftiest peak a stone pillar has latei/ been erected, for the purpose of a trigonometrical survey- , Cader Idris is the commencement of a chain of pt*' mitive mountains, and is computed to be 2850 feet abo'''* the green of Dolgell)', and 3550 feet, nearly three-fourth’* of a mile, above the level of the sea. A recent travellf^ has attempted to demonstrate that at some remote perif** it was a valctino of immense magnitude.

The tract to the south ofCADEK Idris, as far a.s Talyl)’! and M.alwydd, is peculiarly grand. High and ruggf*' mountains of every possible form close in on all sidc.s, wlii'® huge ma-ises of rock hang over, or lie scattered in mishap<”l fragments by the side of the road. To add to the efl'ect f' this scene, the river Dili forms one continued cataract .live or si.N miles, overflowing with tlie innumerable tribo' tary torrents which precipitate themselves from the highe** summits of tlie surrounding rocks ; while, to crown tb’’ ■whole, the shaggy head of Cader Idris towers, the m.ajeS' •.iic centinel of the group.

VI'-NMAN MAWB.

The counly of Caernarvon, in which Lliis mountain situated, claims precedency over every other in Wales, to theioTmcssof its mountains, and the multitude of tn eminences which, in a curved and indented chain, occupl nearly the whole of its extent. (

In proceeding from Conway to Bangor, by a mute ^ once picturesque and romantic, and amid a scenery win varies at every step. Penman- mawr discloses to the b'a'' t mr its bulky head. It protrudes itself into the sea, ao exhibits a fine contrast to the fertility which it interrupts, J A rude view of grey weather-beaten stones and precipic The passage over this mountain was formerly terrific j ^ tlie road has been latterly' widened, and secured, near ver^ie of the precipice, by a strong wall about five feet ^ height. It forms the most sublime terrace in the isles winding round the mountain on the edge of ^ abrupt cliff; while the vast impending rocks above, ^ roaring of the waves at a great distance below, and i frequent howling of the wmd, all unite to fill the P" with folemnitv and awe

STROMBOLI.

79

SKinDAW.

English mountain, which has an elevation ot 3530 nearly three fourths of a mile, above the level ot the is situated in Cumberland. It is more remarkable on ®'=count of the scenery over which it presides, and whicli ^ceedsin beauty whatever the imagination can paint, than those bold proiections and that rugged majesty which be expected, but which will be here sought m vain, at such a distance as smixiths the embossed work ail these rich fabrics, and where its double summit it a distinguished object to mark and characterize it may be considered as a tame and inanimate

WIIAUNSIDB.

^ iiie map of Yorkshire, by Jeffries, the height of this ^QUntain is greatly exaggerated^ its elevation above the sea being more than 2500 feet, nearly half a mile. As 't “ Situated in tire midst of a vast amphitheatre ot hills, the P^spect it affords is diversified with pleasing objects. On I Summit are four or five small lakes, two ot which are nine hundred feet in length, and nearly the same in weadth. A. thin seam of coal also occurs near the top, and Mother is said to correspond with it on the summit ot the Colm-hill, on the opposite side of Dent-dale. Nu- ®fous caves and other natural curiosities abound here, as Ilf 1 Pennigent, about six miles to the eastward or

‘‘gleborough. These latter mountains do not possess any P^'riicular interest.

STROMBOLI.

bwL “ principal of the cluster of small Islands, xymg of Sicily, named the Lipari Isles, the whole

contain volcanoes. At a distance its form ap- * ^9 fie that of an exact cone, but on a closer exami- f°^^nd to be a mountain having two summits of heights, the sides of which have been tom and

STROMBOLX*

rfnattered by craters. The most elevated summit, Inclin'1^ to the S. W.. is, agreeably to Spallanzani, about a mile height.

in this volcanic mountain the effects of a constai^ active fire are every where visible, heaping up, destroyi’’^' changing, and overturning every instant what itself produced, and incessantly varying in its operations. At distance of one hundred miles the flames it emits are vi**' ble, whence it has been aptly denominated tlie light-hoU*^ of that part of the Mediterranean sea.

From the more elevated summit, all the inner part of burning crater, and the mode of its cniption, may be se®**' It is placed about half way up, on the N. W. side of mountain, and has a diameter not exceeding 250 Burning stones are thrown up at regular intervals of sev^'' or eight minutes, ascending in somewhat diverging mf' While a portion of diem roll down towards the sea, tlj^ greater part fall back into the crater j and these being ag^^^ cast out by a subsequent emption, are thus tossed ai><5® I’lnti'l they are broken and reduced to ashes. The volcaD?' ihowever, constantly supplies others, and seems inexhausf*' ble in this species of productions. Spallanzani afiBrt*'^ tliat, in the more violent eruptions, the ejected matter ris®* to the height of half a mile, or even higher, many of ^ ignited stones being thrown above the highest summit tlie mountain.

The erupted stones, which appear black in the day-tint^ have at night a deep red colour, and sparkle like fire»work* Each explosion is accompanied by flames or smoke, latter resembling clouds, in the lower part black, in upper white and shining, and separating into globular inegular forms. In particularly high winds from the S.

S. E. the smoke spreads over every [>art of the ish'»“' Spallanzani observed this volcano on a particidar nig*’^' when the latter of these winds blew with' great viole0‘^^ The clear sky exhibited the appe:trance of a beautiful aui'oj'* borealis over that part of the mountain on which the v‘’‘' cano is situated, and which from time to time became red and brilliant, in propiirtion as the ignited stones thrown to a greater height. The violence of the con'-ad' sions depends on that of the wind. ^

The present crater has hurned for more than a cento'/'

iTKOMBOLI.

^|thout any apparent change having taken place in its sitn- Xhc side from which the showers of ignited matter into the sea, is almost perpendicular, about half a mile “™ad at the bottom, and a mile in length, terminating in a point. In rolling down, the lava raises the fine 'ike a cloud of dust. While this was observed by P^lanzani, tlie volcano suddenly made an eruption. Nu- l^erous pieces of lava, of a dark red colour, and enveloped SRioke, were ejected from the top ot the precipice, and ^ town high into die air. A part of them fell on die decli- ana’ roiled down, the smaller preceded by the greater; all * 3 few bounds, dashed into the sea, giving out a

(v®FP hissing sound. The more minute fragments, from ,1 iightness, and the hinderance of the sand, rolled slowly' ^ttd, striking against each other, produced nearly the But Bs hail-stones falling on a roof. In a few mi-

another explosion followed, without any sensible minutes after, a third eruption took place, Cp . ® roach louder explosion than the first, and a far more inn ‘lisedon of lava. The eniptions, which vs'ere almost ^ “roerable during the time Spallanzani remained there, >,*'"i'ited the same appearances.

die night following the one above described, the vol- « rr^'’^Sed with still greater violence, and rapidly hurled to iiie^^ *'®'ght thousands of red-hot stones, forming diverg- p.5 rays ill die air. Those which rolled down the preci- rlie a hail of streaming fire, which illuminated

there ‘isscent. Independently of diese ignited stones, vivifj 1^?*’ whicli hovered over the volcano, a

test ""'hich was not extinguished when diat was at

hy o ” "'as not properly flame, but real light reverberated ^'roosphere, impregnated by extraneous particles, Vsryii, ? ®.®Pscially by the ascending smoke. Besides ascejjrp intensity, it appeared constantly in motion, *®roairi*'^’ ^^roending, dilating, and contracting, but aliray » svliipi Pttrpendicular over the mouth of the volcano, ydthiji that it was occasioned by the conflagration

*^®*«robl n The detonations in the greater eruptions

roofer *ke roaring of distant thunder ; but, in the more *hey ^ ® ®nes, the explosions of a mine. In the smallefl tK» audible. Each was some seconds lato

Ejection.

S3

g2 llPABl.

Near the mouth of the volcano is a small cavern, a jection above which secures it from the entrance of , ignited stones. From this cavern Spallanzani was enabl^ to look down into the very bowels of the volcano. . describes the edges of the crater as of a circular forna, not more than 340 feet in circumference, the internal si ^ contracting as they descend, and assuming the shape oi truncated inverted cone. The crater itself, to a cer »‘ height, is filled with a liquid red-hot matter, resembhW melted brass. Thi.s is the fluid lava, which appears to ao-itated by two distinct motions, the one intestine wfia iTg and tumultuous, and the other that by which it is i^ aetled upward. This liquid matter is raised, sometimes vv _ more, and sometimes with less rapidity, within the c c ^ and when it has reached within twenty-five or thirty feet ^ the upper edge, a sound is heard not unlike a shot clap^_^^ thunder, while at the same moment a portion of the separated into a thousand pieces, is thrown up with n scrtbable swiftness, accompanied by a copious eruption smoke, ashes, and sand. A few moments before *e rcp die superficies of the lava is inflated and covered with bubbles, some of which are several feet in diameter : the bursting of these the detonation and fie^ place. After the explosion, the lava within Lks, but soon rises again as before, and «ew bub

sinks, but soon rises again as oeiore, ..na

appear, which again burst and produce new ^^i

-JA _ 1 lirtU nr no sound : but

app63t» wnicn dga i» . »• t * a Ki^r

When the lava sinks, it gives little or no sound ; bm it rises, and particularly when it begins to be inflated ^ bubbles, it is accompanied by a noise similar, in to the difterence of magnitude, to that of liquor bo vehemently in a cauldron.

UPARI.

This island, which has given name to the whole 4eserving of notice on account of its celebrated jjoii Thev are the only vestiges of subterraneous conflag^ ^ * • * i:«. 4.A xTToot r\f tKn

They are tne omy vesuges ^ „,v

now remaining, and lie to the west of the city, Mimmit of a mountain of considerable elevation, ^ iSTtB BKI.I.A STUFB-. MOUNTAIN OF StOVB^

consist of five excavations, m the form of gt»«^V ■ them liave been abandoned on account of ”

two of

, VVLCAKO. 83

3n exposure, to which might cause suffocation. Even ne stones arc so hot tliat they cannot be touched ; but still ^ heat varies, and experiences all the vicissitudes of vol- l^noes. The ground is not penetrated with hot vapours ^uing from several apertures, as has been asserted ; Spal- ^nzani, however, found one from which a thin stream of ®hioke issued from time to time, with a strong sulphureous ®*hell indicating tlie remains of the conflagration existing *>eiieath.

It is impossible to fix the exact epoch at which the fires t Lipari were extinguished, or rather the period at which

the

eruptions ceased, for the existence of the former may

1

^ deduced from the hot springs tind stoves. Dolomieu ytinks that the last eruptions are as old as the sixth century t the Christian era, and conjectures that they may have ^*5ed since the fires found a new vent in Vnicano, since he not entertain any doubt but that the two islands have a Ubterraneous communication. Of this the inhabitants of ^'pari are so well convinced, that they are in the greatest 'S'tation when Vulcano does not smoke, and when its pas- are obstructed. They fear shocks and violent erup- suspecting even that the fires may again break out J" their own island. It is certainly a feet that the earth- Wakes, which are very frequent, generally cease when the ’ttptions of Vulcano commence.

VULCANO.

ttu, which is the last of the I.ipari isles, bears in every the stamp of fire. It was the superstitious belief of Jv® ancient inhabitants that Vulcan had here established forges, there being i:onstant fires during the night, and thick smoke throughout the day. It consists of a moun- 'tt in the form of a truncated cone, which is, however, .. .®tely a case opening and exposing to view a second cone Q-'^in, more exact than the otlier, and in which the mouth o the volcano is placed. The latter is thus enveloped on sides by the ancient cone, and is only open on that * w-hich is immediately washed by the sea.

*he base of the interior cone is separated from the steep

*id

of the ancient crater by a circular valley, which ter-

•*^1

‘tes on one side at tlie junction of the two mountaiiK(

VULCANO.

and on the other sinks into the sea. In this valley lig^ pumioe-stones are blended witli fragments of black vitreoi^ lava, and buried in ashes perfectly white. The blow o hammer on these stones produces a loud hoUow soun ’ which re-echoes in the neighbouring caverns, and P'®' .j tliat the surface is nothing more tlian the arch ot a t ai covering an immense abyss. The sound varies according tlie thickness of the cmst, which must have considerable soi dity to support the weight of the new mountain. This, cording to Dolomicu, is higher and steeper than the co| which contains the crater of Etna, and its access still mO' difficult ; its perpendicular height, however, is not nt'J than 2640 feet, half a mile. He represents the crawr Vulcano as the most magnificent he ever saw ; and lanzani observes that, with the exception ot that ot li-t ^ he does not know of any more capacious and majestic.^ exceeds a mile in circuit, has an oval mouth, and its gie>» . diameter is from the S. E. to the W„ white its dhP* ‘-’"j more than a quarter of a mile. The bottom is Ihu, ‘• from many places streams of smoke exhale, emitting a stro sulphureous vapour. This vast cavity is vciy regul.u, ‘‘t as ita entire contents are displayed to the eye, presents of the grandest and most imposing spectacles hi nature, large stones being rolled down, the mountain rc-ec io and on their reaching the bottom, they appear to sink fluid. Indeed, with the aid of a glass, two small la supposed to be filled with melted sulphur, have been covered. The declivity of the interior walls is so that, even when there is not any danger from scent is next to impossible. Alter considerable dim u j. however, this was accomplished by Spallanzani on “C - side, the only one accessible. Ele found the botto^, be somewhat more than one third of a mile m circ n . rence, and of an oval form. The subterraneous noise Jtere much louder than on the summit, sounding liKe a petuoiH liver foaming beneath, or, rather, like a coni stated waves meeting and clashing luriously togeu.j^ The c^round was likewise in some places perforated apertures, from which liisfmg sounds issued, those produced by the bellows of a furnace. It when pressed by the feet; and a large piece of lav^ fall fit-e or six feet, produced a subterraneous ec« ^ sound, which continued some time, and was loudest

THE IIIMAI.AVA MOUNTAINS. 85

circumstances, combined with its burning *he strong stench of sulphur it emits, prove that

nres of the volcano are still active, j I* ^options have been most considerable fluring the of' If which have desolated Sicily and a great part

tan^ ^’ month of March, 1786', after subter-

^he '•I'onders and roarings, which were heard over all ^^'otds, to the great terror of the inhabitants, and jjj ® '^ocompanied by frequent concussions, the crater ^ P' odigiou.s quantity of sand, nii.xed with im- i,y 'J® ''olinnes of smoke and lire. This eruption conti- oject , t'oys, and so great was the quantity of sand Wj.| the circumjacent places were entirely covered

.at n' '*■ “ Considerable height,

h

•tiory current has not happened during the me

The lava did not flow at least over the edges of the crater ; and.

Oily living person.

the HIMAL.WA MOUNTAINS,

BETWEEN INDIA AND THIBET.

fiteat Himalayan snowy range, says Mr. I'raser, s th^t elevated crest of the mountainous tract

Or tile plains ofHintlostau from those of Thibet,

Jlrm.! **®*" friary. Far as they ])redoniinate over, aiifl *** tliemselves above the rest, all

the jU. f appear in distant ranges, when viewed from

gr(.„V If indeed only the roots and branches of this

rail alvv™ ’ ''‘’'''ever difficult to trace, the connexion

and detected between each inforiiir mountain

'■'Some

that

Olig .

herd

1 he b T.^i'ticnlar member of its great origin

side”*'^ tii this mountainous tract, on

but. orins’

"'hicii overlooks Hindostan, is no doubt vari- Iroin the diflicnltv of the country, a traveller op ot many days hei’ore he reaches the

*''d Bii....* ‘''^''■'idiate snowy clifi'a. The best observations y do not authorise the allowance of more than

surve

'tvera

Coil, 5^ '^8pth of about sixty miles from the plains to these, in that part of the country siiow' ^'ihject of this narrative. The breadth ol y 2uiie itself in all probability varies still more;

86 THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAIN'S.

for' huge masses advance in some places into the lowW (listrict.s, and in others the crest recedes in long ravineSi that are the beds of torrents, while behind they are cloieJ l>3' a succession of the loftier eliiFs. Every account "'S receive of a passage through them, (and this is no'doubt found most eoinmonly where the belt is narrowest,) give* a detail of many days' journey through deserts of sno''' and rocks ; and it is to be inferred, that on the north-east side they advance to, and retreat from the low ground i" an equally irregular manner. Indeed, some account’ would induce the belief, that long ranges, crowned with snow-clad peaks, project in various places from the gre*’* spine, and include habitable and niilder districts ; for, it* ;dl the routes of which we have accounts, that proceed i” various directions towards the Trans-Himalayan coiiO*